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Routes in Poe Buttress
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Brothers in Arms T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Edge of Fright T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Eyes of the World T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R |
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Maelstrom, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Mississippi Half-Step T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Off Your Rocker T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Prequel to the Sequel T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Uptown Toodeloo T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
| Type: | Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Olaf Mitchell and Peter Prandoni |
| Page Views: | 1,344 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Kevin Stricker on Dec 17, 2007 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure
Details
The Cathedral Spires area, including Block Tower, Cynical Pinnacle, Snake Buttress, the Dome, Hall of Mirrors, Sunshine Wall, and Poe Buttress, are closed annually starting March 1 for raptor nesting. After careful monitoring of nest sites, Jefferson County Open Space opens certain areas of Cathedral Spires and maintain spot closures for active nests through July 31st. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates: jeffco.us/open-space/parks/…
Note, JeffCo Open Space has notified us that access to The Bishop and Poop Point (along with all the Cathedral Spires Area) currently goes across JeffCo OS land. Despite information in some guidebooks (published or soon-to-be-published), the entire Cathedral Spires area is subject raptor nesting closures. Please be aware of the hefty fines associated with failure to observe these regulations.
Note, JeffCo Open Space has notified us that access to The Bishop and Poop Point (along with all the Cathedral Spires Area) currently goes across JeffCo OS land. Despite information in some guidebooks (published or soon-to-be-published), the entire Cathedral Spires area is subject raptor nesting closures. Please be aware of the hefty fines associated with failure to observe these regulations.
Description
Uptown Toodeloo is the third in the trilogy of hard crack climbs on the Poe Buttress. Although given a harder rating than both Mississippi Half Step and Edge of Fright, it is in some ways the easiest route on the formation do to the excellent rests and short cruxes.
Uptown Toodeloo follows the cracks on the left edge of the Poe Buttress. The first pitch starts with a bulging 5.8 fist crack leading to a low angle dirty handcrack and chimney, belaying on a large ledge. A better alternative is to start with Off your Rocker or the first pitch of the Half Step.
Pitch two is the business and starts up a 5.10 hand and finger crack on the far left of the buttress directly right of a chimney. This crack becomes a flake at the top and ends at a small ledge on the arete. Reach right around the corner, clip the first bolt, and make some technical moves on small crimps (crux) to reach a jug on the arete. Clip your second bolt, mantle, and work your way right and up an overhanging fingercrack. Steep liebacks and jams take you past the difficulties, and a short OW brings you to the top.
Uptown Toodeloo follows the cracks on the left edge of the Poe Buttress. The first pitch starts with a bulging 5.8 fist crack leading to a low angle dirty handcrack and chimney, belaying on a large ledge. A better alternative is to start with Off your Rocker or the first pitch of the Half Step.
Pitch two is the business and starts up a 5.10 hand and finger crack on the far left of the buttress directly right of a chimney. This crack becomes a flake at the top and ends at a small ledge on the arete. Reach right around the corner, clip the first bolt, and make some technical moves on small crimps (crux) to reach a jug on the arete. Clip your second bolt, mantle, and work your way right and up an overhanging fingercrack. Steep liebacks and jams take you past the difficulties, and a short OW brings you to the top.
Protection
Medium stoppers and cams to 3" with a few extra TCUs. A double rope rappels gets you down, or make 3 single rope rappels down Off your Rocker.
There's a nice new bolt and chain anchor atop p2, but it looks like you'd need 2 ropes to rap from here back to the main ledge. Fortunately you can easily rap down and right about 30' feet to the anchor atop Half-step, and from there back to the main ledge (a 70m rope may be required for this rap, see comments for Half-step).
-Scott Feb 24, 2009
Paia, Maui, Hi,
Thanks for the possitive report Scott, I always enjoyed the line every time I did it.It's a stand alone route that compliments it's two brothers very well. Feb 28, 2009