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Routes in Poe Buttress

Brothers in Arms T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Edge of Fright T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Eyes of the World T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R
Maelstrom, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mississippi Half-Step T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Off Your Rocker T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Prequel to the Sequel T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Uptown Toodeloo T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad
FA: Stone, Briggs, Chace mid 80s
Page Views: 3,945 total, 19/month
Shared By: slevin on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

Aptly named, and one of the best and most challenging finger cracks in the Front Range. BIA takes the R-diagonal splitter just right of The Maelstrom (see that route for approach description).

The initial 20 feet is a very strenuous, technical set of moves, and requires a lot of work fishing in the gear. Hope that there is at least one fixed wire. After that, the climbing only gets harder and harder- sustained, technical finger jamming with marginal feet which goes on and on, until turning the corner and easing near the top. This climb should be on the South Platte fingercrack hardman/woman's tour, right up there with the Bishop and Sphinx cracks. Originally done as a siege effort, it was onsighted by Alan Lester in the early 90s.

Protection

Wired nuts to 2" cams, with as many TCUs as you can scrounge up, mostly yellow Metolius (approx. 0.5 to 0.75") and several 1" also. Advil, tape, and "Crazy Glue" for the cuticle ripping you will receive.

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