Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches, Grade III
FA: Noel Childs and Rufus Miller
Page Views: 2,152 total · 16/month
Shared By: Kevin Stricker on Dec 5, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

Edge of Fright joins Mississippi Half Step as one of the "Triple Crown" classics on the Poe Buttress. It links up three cracks on the right edge of the buttress, and is characterized by committing moves above small protection.
The first pitch begins with the Half Step, then steps right at the obvious, horizontal crack and continues up a positive, finger crack (5.10).
The second pitch is the Business, and begins directly above the bolted anchor on the belay ledge. Climb slabby moves to an easy hand and fist crack. Collect your psyche, place some pro then step left and climb a thin seam with hard to place small protection. A rest is gained at the horizontal before making hard moves left to the final crack. Another tenuous rest is followed by a challenging, final crack which eventually widens to thin hands before stepping left again to join the Half Step at its second belay.
Although the Edge of Fright is a scary lead it protects pretty well with modern small gear. It is arguably the best route on the Poe Buttress. Get on it!

Location

The route is on the far right side of the Poe Buttress. A 70M rope will get you down from the fixed stopper anchor at the top of pitch 2 of the Half Step. Or continue to the top of Uptown Toodaloo and do 3 rappels with a 60M rope down Off Your Rocker.

Protection

Lot's of RPs and TCUs and a few cams to 4".
Kevin Stricker
Evergreen, CO
  5.11
Kevin Stricker   Evergreen, CO
  5.11
The following is a comment in Mississippi Half Step by Olaf Mitchell regarding the route:

I would like to acknowledge Rufus' lead on first ascent of "Edge of Fright"! Prandoni and I did the second ascent of Edge of Fright the same day we climbed the Toodeloo and Halfstep. We were armed with two complete sets of wired nuts and extra draws and biners. If my memory serves me well, we used most of that gear.

After speaking with Noel after their ascent, he told me that they barely had a full set of wires and some sizes were missing.
This means that Rufus had to climb some "sick" sections without the protection that a mortal man would need. "But, I have never heard of Rufus "Bam-Bam" Miller ever referred to as mortal!" Dec 5, 2007
stevecurtis
Petaluma California
stevecurtis   Petaluma California
Onsight 1997. Yes, the name was apt. I used a bunch of RPs and sliders, and then didn't have decent pro at the little roof. The next year I went back with my friend Pat, and he led it with some type of a trick tri-cam. Looked safe. Apr 6, 2008
Scott Bennett
  5.11b R
Scott Bennett  
  5.11b R
I didn't have one at the time, but I would agree with the above comment about the tri-cam. It looked like a pink or red one would have gone in well in a little hole just before the cruxy, kinda-runout traverse left. The other option is a small and kinda sketchy rp, so I'll definitely be bringing some tricams next time I get on this pitch.
-Scott Feb 24, 2009
Scott Bennett
  5.11b R
Scott Bennett  
  5.11b R
Finally got around to leading this thing, fully engaging! It's on as soon as you step left into the thin seam, with many strenuous-to-place tiny wires.
As I mentioned in my previous comment, I thought a tricam might fit into a hole in the horizontal crack before the traverse left. I couldn't get pink or red in there, but the new tiny black Tricam went in! Equalized it with a decent #2 RP and felt great....

-Scott Oct 6, 2010
WadeM
Golden, Co
  5.11b PG13
WadeM   Golden, Co
  5.11b PG13
Finally got around to giving this thing a go! Surely packs a punch for 11b!

I'd say it goes at PG-13+ as lots of the gear is strenuous to place but never fully R.

I brought 0.1 0.2 double rack black Totem to 2, RPs/small wires and (1) 3 for opening handcrack and the magical black tricam for the traverse! Highly recommend this piece.

This climbs is all about the face climbing and flared jams! Get on it! Sep 29, 2017