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Routes in Sector A

Aloa to Urga S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Batida S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Luna Piena S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
MTB S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
No Global S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Peggy S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Piccola e Bella S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Placca motoria S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tempera S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Togo S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Vie Tranquillo S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Sport, Alpine, 375 ft, 5 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 66 total, 1/month
Shared By: Dustin B on Sep 15, 2013
Admins: Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath

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Description

Multi-Pitch sport climb on the left-center side of wall. The quality of climbing and stone is fantastic (save for P1), the condition of some of the fixed hardware in spots isn't that great. Otherwise this a 3-4 star climb.

P1. 5.8R-Start just right of 'Peggy' up the blocky corner. climb this up to grassy terraces and then traverse left and lieback up a small flake to gain the anchors of 'peggy' and 'no global'. Quite runout. Really, a much better option would be to climb one of the aforementioned routes.

P2. 5.10. Step left and climb up the face to a small ledge. Continue Straight up to a bolt belay under a small roof.

P3. 5.10. Climb to the right and find a bolt, then continue more or less straight up to a bolt belay.

P4. 5.10+. Climb to the left, then up.

P5. 5.10. Shorter pitch, climb almost to the top of cliff.

Location

Sector A. Route starts about 80' left of where the approach trail meets the cliff, up a chossy, blocky corner with a large cairn at the bottom. Rappel the route.

Protection

Well spaced bolts, the occasional bent pin (mostly blades), Bolt anchors.

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