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Torre Piccola, "via della Guide"
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 4 from 2
votes
Routes in Torre Piccola di Falzarego
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Bella E Monella S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Parete Ovest or “Center Route” T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Scoiattoli Direct - Ghedina T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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South Arete - Via Comici T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Torre Piccola di Falzarego West Face, Via Normale. T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Torre Piccola, "via della Guide" T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 750 ft (227 m), 9 pitches |
| FA: | Scoiattoli Group, Cortina |
| Page Views: | 2,545 total · 19/month |
| Shared By: | Rodger Raubach on Sep 14, 2013 · Updates |
| Admins: | Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath |
Description
The route consists of 9 wonderful leads of exposed climbing on excellent rock. Pitch 1 is quite easy and is fairly short, ending on a decent belay stance after about only 50 feet. Pitch 2 traverses left (exposed but easy climbing) to a short dihedral which terminates atop a flake (same belay as Comici Route). Pitch 3 climbs diagonally right, trending towards a chimney/gully system. Pitch 4 follows the gully/chimney and involves a bit of fun stemming. Belay at the top of the initial chimney where there is a cemented ring on the left wall and a flat ledge. Pitch 5 is the crux, and may have a move or 2 approaching the 5.7 level (old school 5.6, UIAA Gr. IV+), where a finger traverse left is needed to surmount a tricky, slightly overhanging section with poor footholds. Pitch 6 is the real reason for doing the route: a marvelous slab with beautiful holds for both hands and feet, never exceeding 5.5 in difficulty. Natural protection with several drilled and cemented pitons. Pitch 7 diagonals left towards the Comici Arete, and all subsequent pitches are congruent with the Comici route described elsewhere.
Location
Descent is initially a short downclimb to a drilled in anchor to the North, about 15 feet below the summit spire. Two abseils are needed to reach a platform between the two Falzarego Towers. Descend through the split between the massifs; some spots are quite steep and polished and may require a rope. There are a few knobs where a short abseil may be prudent. Once out of the gully between the towers, additional steep terrain is encountered until an old military mule track road is reached. The descent is NOT pleasant.
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