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Routes in The Shaft
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[Redacted] S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Coal S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Copper S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Gold S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Iron S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Lead S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Molybdenum S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Nickel S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Shaft of Light S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Tip of the Shaft S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Tungsten S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Unknown at The Shaft S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Vanadium S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Sport, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 657 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | slim on Sep 12, 2013 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Road and Raptor Closures
Details
Per Ross Andrea: Ramparts Range Road is closed December 1.
March 1st-July 31st: Devil's Head Rock, Sin City, & Recovery Wall are closed for raptor protection. The vast majority of the other crags are unaffected by the closure. Please visit:
fs.usda.gov/alerts/psicc/al… for additional information and maps.
March 1st-July 31st: Devil's Head Rock, Sin City, & Recovery Wall are closed for raptor protection. The vast majority of the other crags are unaffected by the closure. Please visit:
fs.usda.gov/alerts/psicc/al… for additional information and maps.
Description
Begin up nice climbing in a small elevator shaft of sorts. The rock is really interesting here, very solid with sort of a waxy sheen to it. Clip the first 3 bolts, downclimb, and unclip the first 2 (see notes in protection section). Shaft of Light takes the right hand set of bolts at this point, while Vanadium breaks left.
Above this is a horizontal break, which is kind of loose inside so try not to pull out any chunks. Fire upward over the bulge onto a spooky flake, and work your way up the face above on thin, spooky holds. The last bit is kind of slabby, or you could probably climb the corner a bit to the right.
The climbing on this route is really good, but many of the holds through the upper half feel very fragile, and there is one decent-sized, hollow flake that you have to tug on a bit. Your belayer will want to pay attention. I pulled off a handful of chunks, and I am generally pretty careful.
Above this is a horizontal break, which is kind of loose inside so try not to pull out any chunks. Fire upward over the bulge onto a spooky flake, and work your way up the face above on thin, spooky holds. The last bit is kind of slabby, or you could probably climb the corner a bit to the right.
The climbing on this route is really good, but many of the holds through the upper half feel very fragile, and there is one decent-sized, hollow flake that you have to tug on a bit. Your belayer will want to pay attention. I pulled off a handful of chunks, and I am generally pretty careful.
Location
When entering The Shaft, Shaft of Light is at the far end on the left wall. It is the 2nd to last sport route and begins in an elevator shaft of sorts. The bolt line splits into 2 routes at the 3rd bolt, with Vanadium going left and Shaft of Light going to the right.
Protection
All bolts, probably 8 or so, plus anchors. I recommend unclipping the first 2 bolts after you have clipped the third bolt. There is a fair amount of loose rock above, and the geometry of The Shaft is such that any loose rock that comes down will be deflected towards the belayer. Unclipping the first 2 bolts will give the belayer more freedom to move out of the way. The last stretch is just a wee runout and slightly slabby.
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