Shaft of Light
Avg: 1 from 2 votes
|Type:||Sport, 50 ft|
|Page Views:||81 total · 1/month|
|Shared By:||slim on Sep 12, 2013|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionBegin up nice climbing in a small elevator shaft of sorts. The rock is really interesting here, very solid with sort of a waxy sheen to it. Clip the first 3 bolts, downclimb, and unclip the first 2 (see notes in protection section). Shaft of Light takes the right hand set of bolts at this point, while Vanadium breaks left.
Above this is a horizontal break, which is kind of loose inside so try not to pull out any chunks. Fire upward over the bulge onto a spooky flake, and work your way up the face above on thin, spooky holds. The last bit is kind of slabby, or you could probably climb the corner a bit to the right.
The climbing on this route is really good, but many of the holds through the upper half feel very fragile, and there is one decent-sized, hollow flake that you have to tug on a bit. Your belayer will want to pay attention. I pulled off a handful of chunks, and I am generally pretty careful.
LocationWhen entering The Shaft, Shaft of Light is at the far end on the left wall. It is the 2nd to last sport route and begins in an elevator shaft of sorts. The bolt line splits into 2 routes at the 3rd bolt, with Vanadium going left and Shaft of Light going to the right.
ProtectionAll bolts, probably 8 or so, plus anchors. I recommend unclipping the first 2 bolts after you have clipped the third bolt. There is a fair amount of loose rock above, and the geometry of The Shaft is such that any loose rock that comes down will be deflected towards the belayer. Unclipping the first 2 bolts will give the belayer more freedom to move out of the way. The last stretch is just a wee runout and slightly slabby.
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