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Routes in The Shaft

Coal S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Copper S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gold S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Iron S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Lead S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Molybdenum S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Nickel S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shaft of Light S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Steaming Beaver S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tungsten S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unknown at The Shaft S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Vanadium S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Head Crew
Page Views: 86 total, 1/month
Shared By: Bill Ballace on May 5, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Raptor Closures Details

Description

Fun climbing leads to a horizontal break, and a rest. Clip the bolt from an undercling and pull out on to the face for a thin finish.

Location

This is the second route on the east side.

Protection

6 to anchors.

Photos

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slim

  5.11d
slim    
  5.11d
Richard, I can't imagine anybody doing this route and not noticing that the 3rd bolt is in junk rock. The bolt would only have to be moved approximately 18 inches down and left to perfectly good rock. The 4th bolt, if moved down the same amount would enable clipping from the mail slot (left hand), which would also be an improvement.

In its current state, I wouldn't recommend leading this route. The climbing on the route is actually pretty good, though. Oct 4, 2011
I can't recall the specific first ascensionist, but it is unlikely that they are/were developmentally disabled... possibly under the influence of mind altering substances? Funny, I did this route a few times and never thought anything was out of the ordinary with the bolts. Must have been paying insufficient attention.... Oct 3, 2011
slim

  5.11d
slim    
  5.11d
The climbing on this route is pretty decent, but the bolting is poor quality. The 3rd bolt is on a big, loose, saggy, hanging, chopper flake (WTF??). The 4th bolt is placed so that you can't clip it from the mail slot, but rather you have to clip it dead in the middle of the crux of the route. Luckily if you fall here, you will fall on the bolt that is in the aforementioned flake....

Definitely not the best bolting job. Oct 3, 2011