Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Shaft

Coal S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Copper S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gold S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Iron S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Lead S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Molybdenum S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Nickel S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shaft of Light S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Steaming Beaver S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tungsten S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unknown at The Shaft S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Vanadium S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Head Crew
Page Views: 402 total, 3/month
Shared By: Paul Heyliger on Mar 15, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


9 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Raptor Closures Details

Description

Nickel is located on the left wall of The Shaft. It starts just right of the obvious trad crack of Silver at a thinner seam-crack with face holds. This route is best identified by the bulging, huecoed wall on the route's upper half.

Nickel begins with a stout sequence leading to the crack with jams that are at times less-than-locker. Crank up this (11d) to a good rest below the great-looking huecoed wall. The crux of the route takes the bulge and headwall above. The quality of the easier finishing moves drops precipitously up the final wide crack to the anchors.

Scoping the route carefully from the ground might give a good idea of which hueco might contain the best hold. Or maybe not. Either way, a very good route.

Location

After you enter the shaft, go down through the narrow spot towards the right side (facing the left wall) of the rock.

Protection

10-12 draws for this, the longest route thus far in the Shaft.

Photos

- No Photos -
slim

  5.12a
slim    
  5.12a
really, really good route, but you would have to completely avoid using either crack whatsoever to approach 12a. this isn't really realistic though, as it would basically limit the route to a swath of rock about 2 feet wide.

the huecos aren't as bad as the sound in the guidebook description, but it helps to be creative with how you used them.

bolt job on this one was excellent, with good clipping stances and protection locations. a good one to push your limits on. Jul 23, 2012