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Routes in Bastion Wall

Camino Real T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Red Sling T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Saturday Morning Matinee T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Standard T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Type: Trad, 600 ft, 6 pitches
FA: Dick Ingraham et. al.
Page Views: 169 total · 3/month
Shared By: Karl R. Kiser on Sep 9, 2013
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Placement of bolts/fixed anchors is prohibited in Wilderness Study Areas Details


The climb would get another star if a couple of bolts were placed on the direct line above the third pitch belay. The long four and fifth pitch traverses simply bypass an unprotected more obvious line.

P1: This is a relatively long face and crack pitch to a good stance.

P2: Continue up the left facing weakness and belay at a pointed corner. This pitch is a bit shorter than the first pitch.

P3: A short crux pitch. Climb up and slightly left then right on a face with a protection bolt. Use the large hueco and go up to the bolted anchor (slightly hanging belay).

P4: Climb an easy traverse left, clipping a bolt and belay at a large block.

P5: Now traverse right for a relatively long pitch and belay below an open book.

P6: Climb right, go around a corner then up to a large ledge with trees. This is the end of the technical climbing.


The start is near the left center of the wall. Look for a right to left dihedral system (two pitches) and start on the right side. To descend, one must finish the climb and then third class (right) on the big ledge with trees to the top of a gully system (right center of wall). Take new slings and do two double rope raps from trees and anchors down the gully.


Stand trad rack up to three inches with many two-foot runners. There is a bolted anchor on the third pitch (one may want to add a new 3/8" bolt to the anchor).


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