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Routes in Bastion Wall

Camino Real T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Red Sling T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Saturday Morning Matinee T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Standard T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Type: Trad, 350 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 103 total, 6/month
Shared By: Marta Reece on Aug 20, 2016
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Placement of bolts/fixed anchors is prohibited in Wilderness Study Areas Details

Description

The route is rated 5.6 on the old topo, but definitely felt harder than that.

Pitch 1, (60 ft, 5.7) Go up on the left side of the boulder and then to the top of it using either the gully or going up the boulder itself. First protection piece is rather high, but it is okay after that. When faced with a wet rock, we have also climbed it on the right side of the boulder instead.

Pitch 2, (170 ft, 5.7) Go up the staircase heading slightly left. The crux move is up a steep featured bulge, which is fortunately fully protectable. Go up the slab from there and traverse left along a crack, past an old bolted anchor. Continue up a wide-open right-facing corner. This part is run out, but the climbing is easy. Continue up and gradually slant to the right.

Pitch 3, (80 ft, 5.7) Continue up the now better defined right-facing corner. Once at the top of it, the route is supposed to be going left to a tree. I took instead a well defined, protectable, and clean corner to a tree there.

Location

Standard Route starts about 200 feet above the bottom of the gully, where the wall gets suddenly steeper, below the left end of a large boulder on the wall above. The best way to get there is to go up the gully to the level of the band of trees and then go right within the band. The bushwhack is not bad at all. The gully leading up to it can be done almost exclusively in the boulder field and is not bad either.

Rap down from a tree to the left and up from the end of the final corner. Go to the dead pine tree and from there down. The first rappel can be done with a single 60m rope. It takes two 60m's for the second.

Protection

We had doubles up to #3 and a #4, nuts, and tricams. The old bolt anchor is down to a single quarter-inch bolt and not worth clipping.

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