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Routes in Bastion Wall

Camino Real T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Red Sling T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Saturday Morning Matinee T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Standard T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Type: Trad, 500 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 48 total · 6/month
Shared By: Ian Harris on Jun 5, 2017
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Placement of bolts/fixed anchors is prohibited in Wilderness Study Areas Details

Description

P1 (5.7, 170 ft): Start at the Base of Standard Route. Once level with the first treed ledge, head left onto a blocky ledge and continue left. The ledge eventually turns into a long traversing crack with good pro. Finish the pitch when the crack peters out.

P2 (5.8, 100 ft): From the belay, head up and slightly left to a comfy ledge. Fiddle with gear here and make a few slabby moves toward up toward easier ground. Trend left to a wide-angled dihedral. Follow the thin crack in the dihedral up to a good belay ledge with brush.

P3 (5.8 PG-13, 170 ft): Begin the pitch in a left leaning diagonal crack, and eventually hop back over right to the main gouge. Gear is sparse hear, so use whatever you can find.

Descent: Head climber’s right on the big treed ledge on top. There is a good tree with a sling on it lower down. Belay from the tree around a large boulder to another tree with new slings and rap gear. This is the standard rappel route.

Protection

Standard trad rack. Tricams, especially Pink, for the spots with tricky gear.

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