Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown - old pins found but no record
Page Views: 222 total · 3/month
Shared By: Tony B on Aug 7, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is a great climb, especially done as a single pitch. Start off on less defined but moderate terrain, either shared with the start of 'Stem Cell Research' or to the right of that to reach the base of a crack, and continue a few meters to where the crack splits, with a 2-bolt anchor on the left side. Place smaller gear on this lower section to save the larger gear for the top.

Belay at the anchor, or better yet, clip a long runner to it, and keep climbing.

As the crack splits, stay left in the hand-to-fist sized side and ride this over a bulge (4" cam) crux to the last 40' or rock and onto a good ledge and rap anchor.

Make 2 raps to the base. This may be possible with a 50m rope, but we had a longer one (70m) and did not get a good estimation of rap lengths. A 60m would certainly works.

Location

This route follows the obvious left hand side of the obvious "Y" crack near the top of the middle buttress.

Protection

A standard rack to 4" with and extra #3 Camalot or two for the sustained section in that size. Also, bring plenty of slings to do it as a single pitch.

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Ross Swanson
Pinewood Springs
  5.8
Ross Swanson   Pinewood Springs
  5.8
I downgraded the difficulty to 5.8 because of good, small, foot hold ledges during laybacks and trick used @ the roof, see my beta in the tick section. Jun 26, 2016