Avg: 3 from 3 votes
|Type:||Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||unknown - old pins found but no record|
|Page Views:||173 total · 3/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Aug 7, 2013|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis is a great climb, especially done as a single pitch. Start off on less defined but moderate terrain, either shared with the start of 'Stem Cell Research' or to the right of that to reach the base of a crack, and continue a few meters to where the crack splits, with a 2-bolt anchor on the left side. Place smaller gear on this lower section to save the larger gear for the top.
Belay at the anchor, or better yet, clip a long runner to it, and keep climbing.
As the crack splits, stay left in the hand-to-fist sized side and ride this over a bulge (4" cam) crux to the last 40' or rock and onto a good ledge and rap anchor.
Make 2 raps to the base. This may be possible with a 50m rope, but we had a longer one (70m) and did not get a good estimation of rap lengths. A 60m would certainly works.
LocationThis route follows the obvious left hand side of the obvious "Y" crack near the top of the middle buttress.
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