All Locations > Washington > Northwest Region > North Cascades > Washington Pass > Silver Star and c… > Paisano Pinnacle
Avg: 2.4 from 5 votes
Routes in Paisano Pinnacle
|Rampage T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|West Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 500 ft, 4 pitches|
|FA:||Bryan Burdo, Greg White (1984)|
|Page Views:||609 total, 12/month|
|Shared By:||Bryan G on Aug 1, 2013|
|Admins:||Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick|
DescriptionRampage follows a large corner system on the right side of the main face. It's in the shade until afternoon. The cruxes on pitches 2 and 3 are short lived and easy to pull through if you need to, and overall I'd say this climb is pretty mellow for a 5.10 on alpine rock. Approach by hiking most of the way to the Burgundy Col, and then cutting right across a very loose slope to gain the left end of an obvious ledge system. Follow this ledge system to the right, to the base of the corner.
Pitch 1 has several options and can be a little confusing because there are multiple corner systems. On the approach, identify the "triangle roof" (actually more of a square roof) on pitch 2 and use this to orient yourself so you end up in the right corner.
Pitch 2 is the standout pitch with stellar rock quality. Climb the steepening corner to the small roof. Above the roof are a couple long moves between fingerlocks and this is the crux. It helps to either be tall or have very small fingers.
Pitch 3 is short climbs a detached flake in the corner before stepping out to a crack system on the left-hand wall. The rock gets more grainy here but the climbing is still fun.
For the final pitch you want to trend a bit to the right and there are several options here which are mostly all easy.
Descend by scrambling the Class 3 ridge towards the North Face of Burgundy Spire. Some downclimbing is required on precariously stacked blocks and flakes. From the sandy ledge many parties link this route with the N Face of Burgundy, otherwise make two 30m rappels down the rubble-filled gully to the left.