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Routes in Paisano Pinnacle

Rampage T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
West Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, Alpine, 500 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Bryan Burdo, Greg White (1984)
Page Views: 609 total, 12/month
Shared By: Bryan G on Aug 1, 2013
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


5 Opinions

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Description

Rampage follows a large corner system on the right side of the main face. It's in the shade until afternoon. The cruxes on pitches 2 and 3 are short lived and easy to pull through if you need to, and overall I'd say this climb is pretty mellow for a 5.10 on alpine rock. Approach by hiking most of the way to the Burgundy Col, and then cutting right across a very loose slope to gain the left end of an obvious ledge system. Follow this ledge system to the right, to the base of the corner.

Pitch 1 has several options and can be a little confusing because there are multiple corner systems. On the approach, identify the "triangle roof" (actually more of a square roof) on pitch 2 and use this to orient yourself so you end up in the right corner.

Pitch 2 is the standout pitch with stellar rock quality. Climb the steepening corner to the small roof. Above the roof are a couple long moves between fingerlocks and this is the crux. It helps to either be tall or have very small fingers.

Pitch 3 is short climbs a detached flake in the corner before stepping out to a crack system on the left-hand wall. The rock gets more grainy here but the climbing is still fun.

For the final pitch you want to trend a bit to the right and there are several options here which are mostly all easy.

Descend by scrambling the Class 3 ridge towards the North Face of Burgundy Spire. Some downclimbing is required on precariously stacked blocks and flakes. From the sandy ledge many parties link this route with the N Face of Burgundy, otherwise make two 30m rappels down the rubble-filled gully to the left.

Protection

Pro to 4"
RyderS Stroud
Dali, Yunnan Province, China
RyderS Stroud   Dali, Yunnan Province, China
Fun route, but not as classic as the book made it out to be. First pitch wanders a bit on some funkier rock. P2 is super fun and full-value for the grade, though it would probably be less of a height-dependent crux if the crack above the roof was dug out a bit. P3 felt soft for .10d. A few tugs over the bulge and you're into dreamy finger lock land and good stances. P4 is much more fun. Once you pass the big dirt clod above the belay, the steep wide crack is way fun and not nearly as hard as it initially appears from below.

In all, a good route not as a standalone, but as a lead into the NF of Burgundy. Aug 23, 2016
This route is consistently fun with a lot of 5.9 climbing and a few harder cruxes. It's a little dirty in a some spots, but follows great crack systems for almost the entire climb. On the last (fourth) pitch, climb right from the belay, and then take the first corner that you get to, going around a ~4'' tree and aiming for an off-width bulge above. Aug 11, 2014