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Routes in Leominster State Forest

Edges and Ledges T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gulla Gulla Gully T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Gulla Gulla Gully variation T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Unknown T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown Climb Roof Variation T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Type: Trad, 45 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 227 total, 4/month
Shared By: JD1984 on Jun 3, 2013
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer

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Description

On the left portion of the cliff to the right of a large, fractured roof is a dirty recess. To the right of that recess is a narrow, short, dirty chimney/corner.

Climb the recess to slopey face moves until you find a horizontal for a small, blue cam. Then trend left to the arete right of another roof. Follow the path of least resistance to the top at a nice overlook. With some cleaning, this climb will be more fun. The 5.6 moves are to get you to the first cam placement and the climb eases significantly after that. Good footwork is helpful at the start. A harder start on cleaner rock can be found to the right, but there is no pro until you reach the ledge.

Location

This is left of the rock formation.

Protection

Adequate pro can be found. Once at the arete a bomber 0.75 cam slots nicely in a horizontal to the left of the arete which can be easily missed. Long slings were helpful.

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