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Routes in Leominster State Forest

Edges and Ledges T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gulla Gulla Gully T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Gulla Gulla Gully variation T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Unknown T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown Climb Roof Variation T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
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Type: Trad, 45 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 234 total · 4/month
Shared By: JD1984 on Jun 3, 2013
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer, jim.dangle

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Description

Start as for the 5.8+ face climb. Once you reach the ledge, go up a ramp and pull a large, pumpy roof to gain the top of the cliff. Using a small tree trunk at the top of the roof would likely downgrade the climb to 5.8, but without it, it goes at a stiff 5.9 for the move.

Location

This is on the right side of main face, to the left of the gully climb.

Protection

The pro placed before the roof is questionable, making the roof all the more scary. If you can hang on, the small tree above the roof accepts a sling to protect the difficult top-out.

Photos

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JD1984
Worcester, MA
  5.9-
JD1984   Worcester, MA
  5.9-
A fall while pulling the roof would not be good. You would certainly hit the ledge before anything could catch you. Jun 3, 2013

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