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Leominster State Forest Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Leominster State Forest

L › R R › L A › Z

	Edges and Ledges T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Gulla Gulla Gully T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
	Gulla Gulla Gully variation T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Unknown T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Unknown Climb Roof Variation T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13

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Elevation:	826 ft	252 m
GPS:	42.51954, -71.85606 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	7,069 total · 50/month
Shared By:	JD1984 on Jun 3, 2013
Admins:	Old Timer, jim.dangle, Joe M Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

A decent outcrop of rock can be found on the adjacent hill to the popular Crow Hill Ledge. The longest route goes at about 45-50 feet, and there is much loose/chossy rock. The cliff is approximately 100 feet wide and has steep faces, a couple large roofs, and a dirty chimney/ gully climb. Great care should be taken in watching out for loose rock and placing trad protection. Helmets are a must due to the rock falling potential and the fact that the mid-state trail runs across the top of the cliff.

Getting There

On Route 31, park at the dirt pullout across from Crocker Pond (small brown sign). Take the blue blazed trail up the hillside until it intersects with the yellow blazed Mid-State Trail. Take a left onto the Mid-State trail and follow until you reach an obvious stone staircase leading to the top of the rock outcrop. Halfway up the stairs take a left at a large fallen tree onto a climber's trail that follows the rock face. Approximately 150 feet in, you will find the obvious taller face. Do NOT cut left before the fallen tree as the rather large talus field is quite hazardous (found that out the hard way). I placed a large square stone in the broken stump of the large tree to help identify it.