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Routes in Karen Rock

Assembly Line TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Center Face TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dream Theme TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dyno-Soar TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hoblet Roof TR 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Karen Rock Traverse V3+ 6A+
Karen Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lizard Head TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Look Again TR 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Nightmare TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sky Hook TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Standard Route TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Urchin TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Way Hard Rock Climbin' Betty TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 433 total, 8/month
Shared By: Lurker on May 23, 2013
Admins: Rick Shull, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Not sure how this route didn't make it into the book. If it has a name, please let me know. Best gear route at Moonstone in my opinion.

Start right of the Standard Route (5.9), head up face to shallow dihedral/right-trending ramp. Follow ramp to roof, traverse left out roof, finish on Standard Route/Karen Crack.

Protection

Nuts/TCU's for bottom, cams to 2" for top. 3-bolt anchor at top of Karen Crack.

Photos

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Nick Black
Arcata, CA
Nick Black   Arcata, CA
Fun, but scary lead. Don't blow it. Oct 17, 2015
This is definitely a fun lead! On par with North Crack.
I started it farther right and went up the right side of the block (right of the dihedral and through the large pocket). If you are careful where you place it, the gear is solid enough, it did hold some pretty big swings my second took. (However,I would still treat it as a no fall situation on lead).
I would agree with Floyd in calling it 10a. Mar 25, 2014
Benjamin F
Crescent City, CA
  5.9-
Benjamin F   Crescent City, CA
  5.9-
i've also led this. placed a #2 along the traverse, with a short sling extending it.
i didn't fall on any of the placements, but i'm fairly confident the rock wouldn't have held.
this line can easily be done on top rope with loooooong slings between the anchors for karen crack and assembly line.
the same way to set up for urchin head.
i would strongly advise against leading this.
also, the face to the right of urchin head goes. huge dyno move to the block. felt like 11+
again, id advise against lead falls on gear placed in the traverse shelf or in the dihedral. Aug 12, 2013
Floyd Hayes
  5.10a PG13
Floyd Hayes  
  5.10a PG13
I led it onsight. Uncertain whether I could get gear into the finger crack beneath the roof, I traversed the face below the roof which seemed safer. Fun lead! But watch out for rope drag. Seemed a bit stiff for 5.9, maybe 5.10a? Jul 30, 2013
Rick Shull
Arcata, CA & Dyer,NV
Rick Shull   Arcata, CA & Dyer,NV  
This route doesn't have a name as far as I've heard. The "shallow dihedral" was once the home of a large fin of rock that fell off a few years ago. The resulting dihedral now allows gear..... May 24, 2013