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Routes in Karen Rock

Assembly Line TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Center Face TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dream Theme TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dyno-Soar TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hoblet Roof TR 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Karen Rock Traverse V3+ 6A+
Karen Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lizard Head TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Look Again TR 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Nightmare TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sky Hook TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Standard Route TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Urchin TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Way Hard Rock Climbin' Betty TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: TR, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 995 total, 7/month
Shared By: Rick Shull on Nov 2, 2006
Admins: Rick Shull, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Urchin follows the Standard Route until it exits left into the chimney. At the top of the upper dihedral continue straight up ever steepening finger buckets until the surprise move to the "urchin". Find the two finger pocket with your left hand and mantel onto the slab.

Location

Start Standard Route (look for the blocky holds).

Protection

Stainless bolts above top out. Use long slings to extend over the chimney.

Photos

Mike Horan
San Francisco, CA
  5.10d
Mike Horan   San Francisco, CA
  5.10d
There's currently a single bolt for this anchor. I can see where a second bolt used to exist but it looks like it was pulled out. I ended up extending from the bolts for regular route.

Fantastic climb. The last few moves form the crimps through the undercling to the urchin are some of the best on the rock. Probably harder than 10c for shorter people unable to reach the urchin. Sep 5, 2017
Nick Black
Arcata, CA
Nick Black   Arcata, CA
Another variation is to head right across the upper face and do a big throw to a jug on the arĂȘte, then slap your way up it on good slopers to the anchor Oct 17, 2015