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Routes in Karen Rock

Assembly Line TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Center Face TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dream Theme TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dyno-Soar TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hoblet Roof TR 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Karen Rock Traverse V3+ 6A+
Karen Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lizard Head TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Look Again TR 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Nightmare TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sky Hook TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Standard Route TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Urchin TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Way Hard Rock Climbin' Betty TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: TR, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 416 total, 20/month
Shared By: Jesse Buell on Mar 21, 2016 with updates
Admins: Rick Shull, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

The route starts on the face between Urchin and Assembly Line. Climb straight up to the roof. It would be wise to rest under the roof because the crux is directly above and requires a lot of strength and endurance.

Grab the horn sticking out to the left, and the sideways jug above that before working your way left to a 3 finger pocket and a crimp. Smear your way up and dino to a good jug up and to the left. From there, work your way back to the right across the face and up over the ledge to top out.

The dino area leading up to the dino and the dino itself are the are the crux of the route.

Location

This is at Karen Rock. Take a right out of the parking lot. It's the first massive face that you see. The start is between Urchin and Assembly Line, but you can start at Urchin as the start is easier. The descent is a standard lower from top rope belay.

Protection

There is a 3 point anchor at the top of the rock. Take the path to the right up to the top and set your anchor. There are currently no bolts for leading. This is top-rope only.

Photos

Ryder Dschida
McKinleyville, CA
Ryder Dschida   McKinleyville, CA
The name for this route, according to the Bigfoot Country Climbing Guide, is "Dyno-saur." Jul 19, 2016
Jesse Buell  
 
I figured it must have been climbed. Do you guys know what this is actually rated?

Thanks for the feedback! Mar 26, 2016
Matthias Holladay
Shiprock, Navajolands
Matthias Holladay   Shiprock, Navajolands
Indeed, and I'm pretty sure Tim soloed everything on this outcrop, including Dream Theme, Nightmare, etc. ... he'd go up the harder ones and then down climb the easier ones...nevertheless, to name a route after one's sweetie is admirable! Mar 25, 2016
This variation has been climbed by many, and I believe is listed in the Bigfoot guide. I don't have access to the guide right now to find the name, either way, it is an excellent variation, and a lot of fun! Mar 25, 2016