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Routes in Karen Rock

Assembly Line TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Center Face TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dream Theme TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dyno-Soar TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hoblet Roof TR 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Karen Rock Traverse V3+ 6A+
Karen Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lizard Head TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Look Again TR 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Nightmare TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sky Hook TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Standard Route TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Urchin TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Way Hard Rock Climbin' Betty TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: TR, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,960 total, 16/month
Shared By: Rick Shull on Oct 14, 2007
Admins: Rick Shull, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Nightmare begins by climbing the first half of Dream Theme. Where Dream Theme traverses right, after the large hueco, continue up and left through a blocky bulge to a horn of lighter colored rock. Make a difficult cross through to a series of large but sloping holds, make a couple of moves on these and then continue straight up to the anchor.

Location

Right side of Karen Rock. Same start as Dream Theme.

Protection

3 bolt anchor.

Photos

Matthias Holladay
Shiprock, Navajolands
5.11c/d
Matthias Holladay   Shiprock, Navajolands
5.11c/d
Whoa! Guess those TR bolts are very much appreciated then... Sep 3, 2011
Rick Shull
Arcata, CA & Dyer,NV
 
Rick Shull   Arcata, CA & Dyer,NV  
 
Several years ago, Moonstone was going through a new management plan. Local tribal members were trying to get climbing banned and wanted all bolts removed(even TR anchors). Due to other priority issues, climbing was not addressed but most have felt that adding new bolts might affect future access. Aug 11, 2011
Matthias Holladay
Shiprock, Navajolands
5.11c/d
Matthias Holladay   Shiprock, Navajolands
5.11c/d
I also recall a few of us really wanting to bolt this line, including me, but others insisted it was better off as a TR. Then upon discovering / climbing at Lost Rocks, The Promontory, and Footsteps, we finally left Moonstone alone. But anyway, what are Moonstone Beach regulars / locals saying these days? Aug 9, 2011
Matthias Holladay
Shiprock, Navajolands
5.11c/d
Matthias Holladay   Shiprock, Navajolands
5.11c/d
When Richard Ludwig, Tim Wilhelmi and I TR'd this in the late 80's we called the line from sand to anchors Dream Theme. We messed around with all the variations around it and it was Tim who first unlocked the sequence. I don't think we ever thought we were climbing a 5.12 route, however...But it's a total pump, that's for sure! Nov 12, 2008