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Routes in Karen Rock

Assembly Line TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Center Face TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dream Theme TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dyno-Soar TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hoblet Roof TR 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Karen Rock Traverse V3+ 6A+
Karen Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lizard Head TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Look Again TR 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Nightmare TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sky Hook TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Standard Route TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Urchin TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Way Hard Rock Climbin' Betty TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: TR, 35 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 323 total, 7/month
Shared By: Zacharias Gustav on Nov 19, 2013
Admins: Rick Shull, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route tackles the roof above lizard head. It may seem a bit confusing at first, but after climbing lizard head, walk up the slab up and left. once you reach the L hand sidepull-sloper under the roof, climb directly out the center of the roof on small crimps and slopers. Great challenge on immaculate crimpers and slopers. Boulder problem on a rope. about v6-v7.

Location

above "lizard head" (10d) and "way hard rock climbing betty", (10d).

Protection

tr

Photos

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Benjamin F
Crescent City, CA
  5.13a
Benjamin F   Crescent City, CA
  5.13a
Nice addition. This isn't even in the Bigfoot guide.
A way to make this thing feel like a true sustained 13 is to start on the thin face to the left of Way Hard Rock Climbin' Betty and to the right of the 10b soil line, but watch out for the boulder behind you at the start!
Contrived, but it's a solid V5 sequence that leads the the ledge and rest before the roof.
So many possibilities at Moonstone. Gotta love it. Jan 22, 2014
decided to throw this route on here for anyone wanting a challenge in arcata. Moonstone is soo fun. Might be the most world class climbing ive seen !! :) try it out give it a consensus rating. Nov 20, 2013