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Routes in Karen Rock

Assembly Line TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Center Face TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dream Theme TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dyno-Soar TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hoblet Roof TR 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Karen Rock Traverse V3+ 6A+
Karen Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lizard Head TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Look Again TR 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Nightmare TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sky Hook TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Standard Route TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Urchin TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Way Hard Rock Climbin' Betty TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown,1970's
Page Views: 3,010 total, 22/month
Shared By: Rick Shull on Oct 6, 2006
Admins: Rick Shull, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Route starts up huecos left of prow, then up finger crack with chimney finish. Classic Moonstone lead. Karen rock also has many toprope variations and a good traverse along the base.

Location

Karen rock is the largest formation at Moonstone beach. Karen crack is obvious line left of the prow. Walk off.

Protection

Medium cams in pockets at start, finger size cams/nuts, run out the short chimney. Bolt anchor, bring long slings for toproping.

Photos

Nick Black
Arcata, CA
 
Nick Black   Arcata, CA
 
Fun lead, the gear for the crux is small and shallow, followed by bomber nuts. Protected the upper chimney with a .75 in the crack to the right of it. Oct 17, 2015
Benjamin F
Crescent City, CA
  5.8
Benjamin F   Crescent City, CA
  5.8
i just want to recommend that anyone leading on karen should do so with caution. the rock is fairly soft.
sew it up generously and/or don't plan on whipping on it. Aug 12, 2013
Floyd Hayes  
 
Steep and challenging but well protected for a 5.8 lead. Fabulous! Jul 30, 2013
Tom Fralich
Fort Collins, CO
 
Tom Fralich   Fort Collins, CO
 
Four stars for setting and fun juggy climbing. A good lead if passing through the area. Sep 6, 2011
DJ Reyes
Northern Nevada
DJ Reyes   Northern Nevada
Led this route July 7th 2010 on a beautiful day. Got to the top and belayed up a couple of friends just as the sun set. I don't know of a more serene setting for rock climbing. Jul 10, 2010