Early Access
| Type: | Trad, 335 ft (102 m), 3 pitches |
| GPS: | 39.51607, -105.39462 |
| FA: | Dave Montgomery, Eric Schmeer, Mike Morin, 07/12 |
| Page Views: | 2,726 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | AOSR on May 19, 2013 · Updates |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
- Lion's Head
- Roughneck Area
- Wildcatter Wall
Note that the annual closures of the Park View Dome, The Ranch Hand, Black Creek Wall, and Sawmill Crag have been permanently lifted. These cliffs will continue to be monitored, but will only close if a new nest is spotted.
Description
This is a fun romp up to the top of the Meadow Dome. Pretty casual, it was one of the first new routes to go in at Staunton!
P1: 5.8+. Begin in the leftmost black streak on the Cascades Wall (just before a chimney formed by a tower). Follow this streak up until it is easy to step left into another groove. Build an anchor on the ledge or belay at two bolts on the left side of the ledge (bad pendulum potential for the second), 55'.
P2: 5.8+. Climb directly above the bolted belay anchor on the ridge past a couple small overlaps. Continue up on easier ground and belay at a tree on a ledge to the left of the ridge, 155',
P3: 5.5. The ridge pitch! This has classic position and great stone. From the tree, climb down and right to gain a faint black streak. Follow the streak until you feel like stepping right to the ridge. Take this until you feel comfortable setting up a belay and scrambling to the top, 125'.
Per Bret Files: descent: walk off to climber‘s right. Contour along cliff top until the cliff disappears. Descend along right side of the gully, following the wall, until you can go up and through a notch to the looker's right side of Cascade Wall.




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