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Routes in The Cascades Wall

Ancient Relics T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Coleman Direct T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Diva T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Earn Money Sleeping T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Medusa Cascade S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Running Code T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Solar Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Who Haas Those Holds? T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
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Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 618 total · 10/month
Shared By: rob bauer on Jun 7, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Access Issue: Falcon Closures Details

Description

Phil Persson did the 1st pitch, not quite sure what it was. It is fun and has pro where you need it. 5.8+? We redirected to the anchors on Coleman, did Solar Ridge P2 and then made our own adventure. P1 was quite good!

Per Monty: P2 continues up and slightly right (path of least resistance) to a small stance near the base of some flaring finger cracks with a buttonhead halfway up. P2 climb the flaring fingers via some face holds passing an "ancient relic." Pull onto a sloping ledge, move left and pull a small roof (exciting), and finish on easier ground above.

We walked over to Tan Corridor and rap'd off a tree. If you just want to walk down, keep right and shoot for the top of the Tan' gully.

Location

To the right of Coleman Direct, start at about the lowest point of the wall with 3 cracks below a black roof/pod. Phil started in the right crack and moved left as they petered out, but you might start a bit left?

Protection

Standard rack? Medium cams and nuts. (Disclaimer: we didn't do P2.)

Photos

Monty
Golden, CO
Monty   Golden, CO  
P1 is definitely the money pitch on this climb, but the 2nd pitch is the spicy namesake. The best way to climb this route is to climb past the large, solar ledge on p1 and continue up and slightly right (path of least resistance) to a small stance near the base of some flaring finger cracks with a buttonhead halfway up. P2 climb the flaring fingers via some face holds passing an "ancient relic." Pull onto a sloping ledge, move left and pull a small roof (exciting), and finish on easier ground above.

Also, there is an easier walkoff to the right (northeast) from the top. Once off the dome, stay close to the cliff and keep your eye open for a couple of cairns that will sneak you through a bushy corridor right back to your packs. This is quicker and keeps you from having to walk all the way around the formation. Jun 8, 2013
Jeremy C
Golden, CO
Jeremy C   Golden, CO
We did the first pitch of this route today, not knowing what it was. My partner led and set up an anchor with some gear. There didn't seem to be any anchor bolts for this one. There is a huge, relaxed ledge at the top, and it's pretty easy to rap down off of the anchors for Coleman Direct if you chose to just do the first pitch. We thought it felt around 5.6 or 7 and was pretty fun. Oct 13, 2013

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