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The Kip
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 2.4 from 30
votes
Routes in Island in the Sky
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Fissureman's Friend T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Gang of Foreplay T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Kip, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Mossy Tongue S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
| Type: | Trad, TR, 60 ft (18 m) |
| GPS: | 49.70427, -123.14216 |
| FA: | Bill Kipper, 1997 |
| Page Views: | 1,092 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Lina Baker on May 6, 2013 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
Access Issue: Camping
Details
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
Climb the gently left-leaning 5.7 crack system finishing at a chain anchor to the left once you come over the top. Feet will be mostly slab features for the first 2/3rds of the climb. Crack starts shallow but gets deeper after a few moves.
At the time of posting this, the crack was a bit dirty--the area is still clearly under development. Definitely a hidden gem of a climb.
Location
From the parking lot, walk past Burgers and Fries to the next trail on the right. Marked sign will indicate to High Cliff. Follow trail down and past high cliff. First developed area you come to is Island in the Sky.
The Kip is located just to the right of Fissureman's Friend (found in the guidebook). To get to the base of the climb, scramble up a gully lined with cedar trees. Belay will be on the ledge to the left.
Face also has a bolted slab climb, not in the guidebook. Felt 5.9/10a. Perhaps a local could tell you.
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