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Routes in Island in the Sky

Fissureman's Friend T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gang of Foreplay T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Kip, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mossy Tongue S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, Sport, 100 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Bill Kipper, Chris Trautman, July 1998
Page Views: 99 total, 1/month
Shared By: claytown on Aug 14, 2011
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Do not park in the residential neighborhood! Park in the designated lot Details

Description

A two pitch route with the first pitch being a short (50 foot) left angling off fingers splitter to a bomber ring bolt anchor. This pitch, although short, is a really awesome crack (although more like 5.9 than the 10b that the book gives it).

I didn't do the second pitch but from the ring bolt anchor, you would continue up the low angle slab past bolts (maybe this would have been the 5.10 part?)

Location

just left of fissureman's friend. Good to do both real quick on the way past this crag to other classics.

Protection

P1. All that is required is a yellow, grey, red alien and a .5 camalot. You could also drag up a #1 and/or a .75 and or a second yellow alien, but it's not runout to do the whole pitch on 3 - 4 pieces of gear.
P2 has bolts.

Photos

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Thanks, glad you enjoyed it. Graded it 5.9 at the time, and that's how it went into the new route book at MEC Vancouver, so I was more than slightly surprised to see it graded .10b in the guide. Apr 13, 2014
AJV
  5.10a
AJV  
  5.10a
Awesome crack, but short and very soft on the grade (I'd say 5.9 or 10a). Good warm up for some of the harder climbs on High Cliff. Jul 8, 2013