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Routes in Reflector Oven

Chasm Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crackin, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Don't Pro the Flake Bro T,S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
Loki T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Parker Route, The T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Report to Sickbay T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Strawberry Fields T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sunday Crack Fix T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tourniquet T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Unknown T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Vegetated Crack, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
When Natural Law Fails T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 85 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,818 total, 32/month
Shared By: Larry S on Mar 25, 2013
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

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Description

Traverse out from over the chimney with small gear for about 8' till a move up lets you gain the crack system above. Partway up the crack divides; follow either crack for ~30' up to flakes and easier ground above. End at a ledge with a large pine.

Variation - 5.10 as per BrianWS: Alternately, this route can start direct, at around mid 5.10. Instead of traversing in above the 20' drop, start below. Some tough moves through positive holds will bring you a few feet left of the crack system.

Location

Walk left along the reflector oven past Strawberry Fields and Report to Sickbay to a 20' drop between the main wall and a detached boulder. Start by traversing in above this drop.

To gain the alternate 5.10 start, scramble thru a notch about 30' back from the wall, behind the detached boulder and hike around to the bottom of the 20' drop.

Protection

Gear to 3". I had doubles, but bolder climbers could easily go with a lighter rack. There is a stout pine with a slings 10' left at the top. For a more in-line belay, build a gear anchor in the crack.

For the 5.10 variation, suggested to bring a few finger sized pieces in addition to the standard rack required for the rest of Chasm Crack..

Descent - From the tree, you can rap back to your start point with a little pushing/traversing to the right. A 60m should reach the ground straight down too, and you can hike back up to where you started.

Photos

Seth Derr
harrisburg, pa
 
Seth Derr   harrisburg, pa
 
Highly recommend walking around and doing the direct start. Adds enough variety in 30 extra feet of climbing to make this an area classic. Nov 17, 2015
The starting traverse is the psychological crux. After that it's super fun crack climbing on less than vertical rock. Get on it if you are in the reflector oven! Dec 20, 2014
virginiapine
Charlottesville, Virginia
virginiapine   Charlottesville, Virginia
Note also that shortly after starting the main part of the climb, the crack splits into 2: you can follow either system - so you have 2 climbs for the price of one... Apr 8, 2014
BrianWS  
Alternately, this route can start direct, at around mid 5.10. Instead of traversing in from the ledge to the left of Sickbay, hike all the way down to gain an additional 20-something feet of decent climbing. Some tough moves through positive holds will bring you a few feet left of the crack system.

Bring a few finger sized pieces in addition to the standard rack required for the rest of Chasm Crack.. Jan 19, 2014
Aaron Parlier
Boone, NC
Aaron Parlier   Boone, NC  
Thanks for adding this! Sounds like an awesome route Mar 25, 2013