Avg: 2.4 from 14 votes
Routes in Reflector Oven
|Chasm Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Crackin, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13|
|Don't Pro the Flake Bro T,S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13|
|Loki T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13|
|Parker Route, The T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Report to Sickbay T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Strawberry Fields T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Sunday Crack Fix T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Tourniquet T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R|
|Unknown T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13|
|Vegetated Crack, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|When Natural Law Fails T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13|
|Type:||Trad, 85 ft|
|Page Views:||1,818 total, 32/month|
|Shared By:||Larry S on Mar 25, 2013|
|Admins:||Aaron Parlier, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath|
DescriptionTraverse out from over the chimney with small gear for about 8' till a move up lets you gain the crack system above. Partway up the crack divides; follow either crack for ~30' up to flakes and easier ground above. End at a ledge with a large pine.
Variation - 5.10 as per BrianWS: Alternately, this route can start direct, at around mid 5.10. Instead of traversing in above the 20' drop, start below. Some tough moves through positive holds will bring you a few feet left of the crack system.
LocationWalk left along the reflector oven past Strawberry Fields and Report to Sickbay to a 20' drop between the main wall and a detached boulder. Start by traversing in above this drop.
To gain the alternate 5.10 start, scramble thru a notch about 30' back from the wall, behind the detached boulder and hike around to the bottom of the 20' drop.
ProtectionGear to 3". I had doubles, but bolder climbers could easily go with a lighter rack. There is a stout pine with a slings 10' left at the top. For a more in-line belay, build a gear anchor in the crack.
For the 5.10 variation, suggested to bring a few finger sized pieces in addition to the standard rack required for the rest of Chasm Crack..
Descent - From the tree, you can rap back to your start point with a little pushing/traversing to the right. A 60m should reach the ground straight down too, and you can hike back up to where you started.