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Routes in Shady Side Left

Abbey S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bandit S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Big Bad Love (a.k.a. Bill) S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Budro S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Butch S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Doug S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
George S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
HIVD S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Jerk Off S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Jorge CantstaƱa S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Julie S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Mulva de la Doloris S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Oktoberfest S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Pipsqueak S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Rebecca S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Scott S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Scottie Pippen S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Volver de La Belle Epoque S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 741 total, 13/month
Shared By: KJP on Feb 3, 2013
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

A few hard moves off the deck, lead to big moves on big holds for two bolts. After a great rest you enter the crux, four or five moves on 1/2" crimps culminating in a large lock off to a incut pinch. You get another good rest above the crux. Then start up the final head wall, which can't be any harder then 10c or d.

Location

left of george

Protection

Bolts. Stick-clip mandatory.

Photos

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Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
  5.13a
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
  5.13a
Great climb, with almost none of the sloping crimps that characterize the tunnel. The crux of this one will test your crimping strength on small flat crimps. I used a long sling on the 4th bolt so I could clip from the rest below. It is really hard to clip from the holds at the bolt. Also the finish from the resting jug is more like 11c/d with a few occasional rests. Apr 1, 2013