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Routes in Shady Side Left

Abbey S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bandit S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Big Bad Love (a.k.a. Bill) S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Budro S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Butch S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Doug S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
George S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
HIVD S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Jerk Off S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Jorge CantstaƱa S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Julie S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Mulva de la Doloris S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Oktoberfest S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Pipsqueak S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Rebecca S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Scott S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Scottie Pippen S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Volver de La Belle Epoque S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Type: Sport, 35 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,170 total, 18/month
Shared By: Jgar on Jul 19, 2012
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

Short and steep on solid rock with movement that is interesting for The Tunnel. If you're sick of lock-off high-steps, you can find a little variety here. Jugs to the first bolt and pretty sustained difficulty to the finish, this is the perfect boulderer's route - felt like V0 to V6 to V5 to me.

Start on jugs for a few moves to the first bolt. (You may want to stick clip just in case you blow but if you feel up to a climb like this, you shouldn't have any difficulty clipping it as you go.) Double gastons and a few good pinches lead up and right to the second bolt. Go up to a couple of large ok slopers and work over into a short right facing rail. From here you hit a couple of good jugs and clip the third bolt. A similar sequence above this bolt to a committing move to the juggy seam above leads to the chains.

Location

30 feet left of Julie/Scott. See topo picture (#8)

Protection

3 bolts. chains

Photos

Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
  5.13a
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
  5.13a
If this were twice as long it would be an absolute classic! Sweet bouldery moves all the way. More powerful than fingery with very few of the tunnel slopers. Oct 22, 2012