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Routes in Shady Side Left

Abbey S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bandit S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Big Bad Love (a.k.a. Bill) S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Budro S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Butch S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Doug S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
George S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
HIVD S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Jerk Off S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Jorge CantstaƱa S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Julie S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Mulva de la Doloris S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Oktoberfest S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Pipsqueak S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Rebecca S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Scott S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Scottie Pippen S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Volver de La Belle Epoque S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 587 total, 5/month
Shared By: WAGbag on Nov 9, 2007
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

Compared to Scott it has a harder crux move.

Start with a right sidepull and tricky feet to get the not-so-great hold below the first bolt or move slightly right to use an undercling start. Either way you'll want to have your right hand out of the way of the rope as you throw for the next hold getting to the second bolt. From here take your rests as you get them since the sequence of sloper-highstep-lockoff-reach moves can pump you out at the top. Clip with the anchors at your chest for the best holds.

Location

see area overview.

Protection

bolts to anchors.

Photos

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Aimee Rose
Bend, or
 
Aimee Rose   Bend, or
 
Low crux. More sustained than Scott, but easier moves all together. Sep 20, 2010