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Routes in Shady Side Left

Abbey S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bandit S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Big Bad Love (a.k.a. Bill) S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Budro S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Butch S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Doug S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
George S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
HIVD S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Jerk Off S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Jorge CantstaƱa S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Julie S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Mulva de la Doloris S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Oktoberfest S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Pipsqueak S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Rebecca S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Scott S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Scottie Pippen S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Volver de La Belle Epoque S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Will Snodgrass
Page Views: 63 total, 2/month
Shared By: Shirtless Mike on May 13, 2015
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

While this route is a bit of a star suck to the classic Scott, it adds another V4 boulder problem and takes you to the top of the cliff.

Climb Scott to the original anchors, place a runner on the anchor and climb up and right to a ledge system and the first bolt on the extension. It is critical here to not climb the choss directly above the anchor, take the path of least resistance which involves moving right out of the corner, then up to the first bolt. From here, step left ignoring the blank wall below the second bolt, make a few fun moves up to good pockets and slap for the lip of the wall onto typical tunnel slopers. Make a few engaging moves, a difficult second clip, and pull into a no hands stance in a corner system. Make a few easier but heady moves on marginal rock up to the anchors.

FA is considering re-bolting at some point to make it safer and easier to follow.

FA team wanted to grade this 11d, but since you have to climb Scott to get to the extension, seems like it should get at least 12a.

Location

Extension of Scott

Protection

Bolts to Anchors, adds two additional bolts to Scott.

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