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Routes in Shady Side Left

Abbey S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bandit S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Big Bad Love (a.k.a. Bill) S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Budro S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Butch S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Doug S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
George S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
HIVD S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Jerk Off S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Jorge CantstaƱa S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Julie S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Mulva de la Doloris S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Oktoberfest S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Pipsqueak S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Rebecca S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Scott S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Scottie Pippen S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Volver de La Belle Epoque S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Type: Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 993 total · 11/month
Shared By: claude. on Apr 25, 2010
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

Starting on the left side of the large feature just left of Scott, make the big moves up the steep face on increasingly worse holds until just below the lip, where you'll be faced with the last move of the crux: an explosive throw to a rounded jug. This is the hardest single move on the route and for some it will be low percentage and definitely harder if you're short. From here, manage the pump factor before completing several long reaches on rounded edges. Don't fall doing the last big move before clipping the chains as there is quite some distance to the last clipped draw.

This route seems likely on the harder side of 12c when compared to others of a similar grade at the Tunnel

Location

Left of Scott

Protection

bolts

Photos

Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
  5.12c
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
  5.12c
Unfortunately this route is a bit of a 1 move wonder (especially for climbers who can't keep their feet on the good holds or stem wide to the large feature). While the moves off the pyramid are challenging the crux for me was a right handed deadpoint off a fairly good hold to a large rail that only has a few good spots on it. This throw felt really low percentage to me as it is to a blind hold.

Definitly felt like it's on the harder side of 12c. To me it felt almost or as hard as Gluttony. Sep 20, 2010