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Routes in Bondcliff

007 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Type: Trad, Alpine, 75 ft
FA: Brian J. Glenn and Zach Coburn
Page Views: 1,313 total · 21/month
Shared By: Brian J. Glenn on Nov 18, 2012
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

At the base of the route, you will see a face with an off width crack rising left to right. Follow the crack to the ledge, walk all the way to the back of the ledge and continue up to a blocky overhang. Shift over the arête to climber’s right and continue to a large ledge. At this point you will rotate almost ninety degrees to climber’s left. You will see a vertical crack to your left on the face, this is the crux move. Proceed up into the chimney.

Location

The route is on the famous Bondcliff Buttress itself. Standing on the northwest corner, you will see a chimney at your feet. Rappel down to the Great Choss Glacier below, which requires rotating almost ninety degrees to climber’s left halfway down the rappel.

Protection

Standard rack of nuts and cams. Be sure to have one large one.

Photos

Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
The late Guy Waterman scramble/climbed around the Bondcliffs and West Bond many years ago. Apr 18, 2015

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