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Routes in Chimney Spire

Duet T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Kitty From Hell T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wall of Early Morning Fright T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Dave Willis, Dan Price 1974. FFA Bruce Hendricks, Slick Watts 1980
Page Views: 1,663 total, 27/month
Shared By: limpingcrab on Nov 14, 2012
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Always check road conditions and peregrine closures Details

Description

The old guidebook says, "Sustained, awkward and exposed. An excellent route." I have to agree with all three.

P1: Climb the crack until you reach a two bolt belay on a small alcove before a short chimney/squeeze (5.9).

P2: Climb the squeeze, then head up and left until you're on a large ledge with an alcove (optional belay). Chimney out of the alcove and follow the path of least resistance to the large boulder on top that's wrapped in old ropes.

Location

It follows the obvious large crack on the SE face of the spire, to the right of duet.

Protection

Standard rack up to #5 camalot

Photos

Dave Daly
Kernville, CA
  5.9
Dave Daly   Kernville, CA
  5.9
Yah Jeff, there WAS a fixed Bong on the 2nd pitch. :( Thieves have since pulled Willis's historical piece. Climbed it twice. The Bong was there in 1997 but found it gone in 2001. Mar 31, 2017
I did this route a few times. I remember a fixed bong at the start of the wide. I also did a cool variation to the first pitch that had a nice surprise. Feb 8, 2015