Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Chimney Spire

Duet T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Kitty From Hell T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wall of Early Morning Fright T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Amos Clifford, 1973
Page Views: 1,070 total · 17/month
Shared By: limpingcrab on Nov 8, 2012
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


8 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Always check road conditions and peregrine closures Details

Description

Start from the large dihedral on the SW face. First pitch climbs a crack into the dihedral, up the corner and onto a ledge with slung blocks (5.8++). Tunnel behind the big pillar (move the belay) and pitch two ascends a chimney onto a knobby face to a bolted anchor (5.6). The last pitch is only a few feet to reach the summit.

Descend by rapping from the top of the second pitch directly to the ledge at the top of the first pitch. Another rap off of the big mess of slings will reach the ground. 60m rope works.

Location

The dihedral near the giant boulder on the SW side of the spire

Protection

I felt fine with singles up to 4" and a set of nuts.

Photos

Guy Keesee
Moorpark, CA
Guy Keesee   Moorpark, CA
I have a funny story. ... One day back in 1976, I was working on my map project at CSUN. Looking at aerial/stereo photos of the west side... old school google earth.

I was able to get a thin blade of stone into focus and....dam, that's a spire!! Looking around I was able to find the road and the next Friday, Eric Ericsson, Nick Baderka and I were headed north on 99.

At the logging roads end, the 12:30 am darkness only added to my partners skepticism of the entire expedition. With the rising sun their fears were confirmed, we were parked at the end of a logging road.... no rocks in sight.

Me, I had the maps out, compass (way early GPS) in hand and pointed into the depths of the dark forest, uphill.

Along the way we passed what appeared to be the "water works" for the large bunkhouse for workers, found at the roads end.

More up- hill, but before the crew was on the point of mutiny, we topped out at a small pass and were greeted with a view of what is one of the coolest spires in the Sierra.

We sort of ran down the hill to the south side of the deal because that looked like it offered a weakness. We looked at the dihedral, the route Duet, and spied a 1 to 2 inch crack over a little bit to the left. This crack lead upward to the obvious alcove above. E was all over this, and soon I found myself up in the alcove and E was handing over the rack of stoppers and hex's to me. Some chimney climbing for a bit and soon I was at a good belay spot, with the top in view. (no bolts at all) Nick climbed on by and was quickly on top and going off belay.. we joined him and were so stoked to have climbed ????? the spire??? crazy spire ?? The doobe spire???

Then we found the summit register...

It had about 3 entry's, all from the Christian Camp...7 or 8 people total.

We had a good laugh, added to the register and figured out how to get down, all in all, a stellar day of climbing, adventure, friends and a wonderful setting.




Oct 1, 2014
limpingcrab
Visalia, CA
 
limpingcrab   Visalia, CA
 
Oops, you're right. I accidentally put the FA info for Tibet Duet from the old SEKI guidebook. Updated. Great route by the way, and thanks for all the work you've done documenting and putting up climbs around here! Dec 21, 2012
The first known ascent was by Amos Clifford in 1973 or 74. The route has had many ascents by many parties since then, well before the 1990 FA date given. Dec 20, 2012

More About Duet

Printer-Friendly Guide