Chimney Spire Rock Climbing
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Elevation: | 7,247 ft | 2,209 m |
GPS: |
36.65368, -118.86742 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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Page Views: | 11,523 total · 78/month | |
Shared By: | Limpingcrab DJ on Nov 8, 2012 | |
Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Always check SEKI road conditions and peregrine closures
Details
The SeKi Rock Climbing website nps.gov/seki/planyourvisit/… has current closures as well as other climbing information for visitors.
Moro Rock (SEKI) and Chimney Rocks usually have nesting closures every year from April 1 to August 15.
As of April 2016, all routes are open to climbing.
Moro Rock (SEKI) and Chimney Rocks usually have nesting closures every year from April 1 to August 15.
As of April 2016, all routes are open to climbing.
Description
Chimney Spire is the most sought after and prominent formation at Chimney Rocks, and for good reason. With routes ranging from four pitches of crack climbing on Kitty From Hell, to two pitches of clean rock on Duet, there are many ways to access it's airy summit.
The first ascent of this formation is uncertain. Parties who climbed it early on found pitons and, by local custom, attributed it to Fred Beckey. Because of this there's the "Beckey Route" that may not have ever been climbed by Beckey himself. It is likely that Ben Dewell from Fresno made the first ascent in the late 60s or early 70s, but this story is unverified as well.
The first ascent of this formation is uncertain. Parties who climbed it early on found pitons and, by local custom, attributed it to Fred Beckey. Because of this there's the "Beckey Route" that may not have ever been climbed by Beckey himself. It is likely that Ben Dewell from Fresno made the first ascent in the late 60s or early 70s, but this story is unverified as well.
Getting There
From the parking area, take the trail West and follow the switchbacks up to the notch on Camp Ridge between Chimney Rock and Crystal Wall. Descend the right side of the gully to reach the base.
Start the descent with a short rappel from the summit to the south east (short). The next anchors are above duet, rappel on the climbers right side of the tower to the top of pitch one of duet (ledge covered in blocks. Rappel off of the big mess of webbing to the base. Can be done with one 60m rope.
Start the descent with a short rappel from the summit to the south east (short). The next anchors are above duet, rappel on the climbers right side of the tower to the top of pitch one of duet (ledge covered in blocks. Rappel off of the big mess of webbing to the base. Can be done with one 60m rope.
Classic Climbing Routes at Chimney Spire
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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