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Routes in Chimney Spire

Duet T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Kitty From Hell T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wall of Early Morning Fright T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Access Issue: Always check road conditions and peregrine closures Details

Description

Chimney Spire is the most sought after and prominent formation at Chimney Rocks, and for good reason. With routes ranging from four pitches of crack climbing on Kitty From Hell, to two pitches of clean rock on Duet, there are many ways to access it's airy summit.

The first ascent of this formation is uncertain. Parties who climbed it early on found pitons and, by local custom, attributed it to Fred Beckey. Because of this there's the "Beckey Route" that may not have ever been climbed by Beckey himself. It is likely that Ben Dewell from Fresno made the first ascent in the late 60s or early 70s, but this story is unverified as well.

Getting There

From the parking area, take the trail West and follow the switchbacks up to the notch on Camp Ridge between Chimney Rock and Crystal Wall. Descend the right side of the gully to reach the base.

Start the descent with a short rappel from the summit to the south east (short). The next anchors are above duet, rappel on the climbers right side of the tower to the top of pitch one of duet (ledge covered in blocks. Rappel off of the big mess of webbing to the base. Can be done with one 60m rope.

3 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Chimney Spire

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 8
Duet
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 9
Wall of Early Morning Fright
Trad 2 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 7
Kitty From Hell
Trad 4 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Duet
 8
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
Wall of Early Morning Fright
 9
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Kitty From Hell
 7
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad 4 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Chimney Spire »

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