Type: Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 4 pitches
FA: Herb Laeger, Eric Rhicard. 1989
Page Views: 3,394 total · 25/month
Shared By: Limpingcrab DJ on Nov 14, 2012
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

If you happen to be looking for an excellent, exposed and interesting crack climb at chimney rocks, look no further! Everything from fingers to OW with a funny cliffhanger finish, but beware, it's hard for 10d.

P1: Head up to the crack in the block, then climb from fingers to hands to off-width until you reach a ledge with a single bolt that can be backed up with small nuts (10c).

P2: Climb above the bolt and traverse left around the corner until you're at a finger crack. This part is super exposed, don't look down! Follow the finger crack up and eventually exit right into an alcove with large crystals (10d+).

P3: Climb up out of the crystal chimney into an OW. The OW turns into a great hand crack for a while and eventually you head right around the corner until you reach a decent belay ledge (10b)

P4: Follow the obvious crack system up and right to a corner where you follow the corner up, over a chockstone (use cliffhanger hang for bonus poins), and belay once you can see over the other side (5.9).

Location Suggest change

Go down the loose gully between chimney spire and chimney rock until you see a very obvious clean crack in a block low on the spire.

Protection Suggest change

Doubles to #4, and I think we had a #5 along (#5 not necessary, see comment). Set of nuts.