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Routes in Indecent Exposure Buttress

Amplified Heat S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Indecent Exposure T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rainbow Bridge T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Tree Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
optical promise T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 516 total, 8/month
Shared By: Dan Carter on Nov 1, 2012
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

You & This Route


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See notes for Hueco Tanks Access Details
Some areas require a guide. Details

Description

The start is slab that can be protected well about 20 feet up. Run out on easy slab to the start of the crack. Climb wide crack and chimney to ledge with chock stone for a belay anchor. The second pitch continues up chimney to finger size crack, dihedral up to a tree and big ledge. One can scramble from the tree up to the summit of north mountain on low 5th class terrain.

Location

This is the obvious corner crack on the left side of the indecent exposure buttress. It is to the right of sea of holes. Start on a slab at the base of the climb.

Protection

Big gear. From BD #2 up to BD #5. The five fits great before the beginning of the chimney section. Two BD #4's would have been good one can get by with one. Doubles of #2 and 3 is nice. A BD #.75 protects the open slab. Finger size stuff for the second pitch. A set of nuts would protect the crack of the second pitch.

Photos

meghan c.
el paso, tx
meghan c.   el paso, tx
A bee hive is now 20 feet from the belay at the base of the finger crack on Indecent Exposure. We were there in the early morning and with the shade / cooler temps they didn't bother us, but be carefull - they nearly killed another party the previous weekend on Indecent Exposure. Also be careful of angry bat guarding 2nd pitch. Aug 4, 2015