Type: Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,199 total · 39/month
Shared By: susan peplow on Oct 16, 2007
Admins: Hank Caylor, mattm, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Some areas require a guide. Details
Access Issue: See notes for Hueco Tanks Access Details

Description

P1 - Start on stack of boulders and climb up 20 feet to first bolt. Climbing up and left of the arete using good features and slinging hueco's for protection before climbing past 2nd bolt and a small playing card size brass plaque. After the memorial plaque traverse right 15' to a ledge with a 2 bolt anchor.

P2 - Looking to the right from the ledge it looks as if the arete feature drops into no-mans-land and improbable path. But yes, this is correct. Move up and right from belay to a crack which can be protected using 3" camalot then drop your hands down and move over to a large flake that is towards the front of the buttress. Just above this flake/pillar is a bolt with well featured and amazing climbing ahead to the summit. The guidebook states something about a thin crack, which I don't recall seeing.

No rap stations so you'll be walking down.

Location

30' right of the Tree route on the left shoulder on Indecent Exposure buttress. Look for large stack of blocks at the start and a bolt out right. Anchor your belayer as a fall getting to the first bolt will probably finish you both off. A large nut should do it.

Protection

2 draws, 2-4 long slings and a medium size cam. P1 has bolted anchors atop a ledge, summit anchor is make/sling your own.

Photos