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Amplified Heat
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British PG13
Avg: 3.6 from 7
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Routes in Indecent Exposure Buttress
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Amplified Heat S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Indecent Exposure T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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optical promise T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Rainbow Bridge T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Tree Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Sport, 250 ft (76 m), 2 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Mike Head and friends |
| Page Views: | 1,754 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Ken Trout on Feb 9, 2009 · Updates |
| Admins: | mattm, Matt Richardson, Tommy Blackwell |
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Description
The name Amplified Heat applies to the first pitch. This is one of the best elevens on the front side.
Approach by walking the road past the Mushroom Boulder restrooms and following a trail into the Deliverance Boulders. Climb left, along the base of the wall, up to the start of Tree Crack. Tree Crack is the big corner between Sea of Holes and Indecent Exposure. Start from the nice sandy belay cave for Tree Crack and Sea of Holes. Amplified Heat is the second bolted line right of the Tree Crack. The line of brown huecos next to the crack, with a first bolt way up, is Eternal Apples, 5.11+.
When looking up at Sea of Holes from the belay cave, you'll have your back to the first moves of Amplified Heat. The fixed pin is visible from the ground.
Start by aiming right and then back left to the fixed pin, 5.7r. The pin is a soft iron blade only half in. Next, tricky moves left to the first bolt, 5.9. The easy way up to bolt #2 is out right. A blind reach back left to the second bolt makes for a wild on-sight; 5.10+, almost "r". Closer bolting and fun, steep, climbing lead up to bolt #6 and the start of the crux slab. Approach the last bolt from the right, 5.10+. The psychological crux is pulling up rope to clip the last bolt. The hardest move is tip toeing left past the last bolt until you can reach a good edge about five feet up and left, 5.11b.
The easiest second pitch is called Amplified Apples; 5.10+, three bolts. It climbs up the line of giant Huecos just right of Tree Crack. Other head-wall finishes to the right are harder.
Approach by walking the road past the Mushroom Boulder restrooms and following a trail into the Deliverance Boulders. Climb left, along the base of the wall, up to the start of Tree Crack. Tree Crack is the big corner between Sea of Holes and Indecent Exposure. Start from the nice sandy belay cave for Tree Crack and Sea of Holes. Amplified Heat is the second bolted line right of the Tree Crack. The line of brown huecos next to the crack, with a first bolt way up, is Eternal Apples, 5.11+.
When looking up at Sea of Holes from the belay cave, you'll have your back to the first moves of Amplified Heat. The fixed pin is visible from the ground.
Start by aiming right and then back left to the fixed pin, 5.7r. The pin is a soft iron blade only half in. Next, tricky moves left to the first bolt, 5.9. The easy way up to bolt #2 is out right. A blind reach back left to the second bolt makes for a wild on-sight; 5.10+, almost "r". Closer bolting and fun, steep, climbing lead up to bolt #6 and the start of the crux slab. Approach the last bolt from the right, 5.10+. The psychological crux is pulling up rope to clip the last bolt. The hardest move is tip toeing left past the last bolt until you can reach a good edge about five feet up and left, 5.11b.
The easiest second pitch is called Amplified Apples; 5.10+, three bolts. It climbs up the line of giant Huecos just right of Tree Crack. Other head-wall finishes to the right are harder.
Protection
Originally led with two bolts. The direct finish was called "Straight to Hell". Now the route is all fixed; twelve bolts to a two-bolt anchor.
A pre-inspection top rope can be set up by cleaning the first pitch of Sea of Holes, then lowering until it is possible to step across to an unprotected, 5.4, slab traverse across to the Amplified Heat anchor. Once across the slab and clipped into the anchor, go off belay and pull all the rope through the Sea of Holes anchor. Then thread the Amplified Heat anchor, go back on belay, and lower (or rap). Tree route can be used too, but this way can be harder to clean and follow.
A pre-inspection top rope can be set up by cleaning the first pitch of Sea of Holes, then lowering until it is possible to step across to an unprotected, 5.4, slab traverse across to the Amplified Heat anchor. Once across the slab and clipped into the anchor, go off belay and pull all the rope through the Sea of Holes anchor. Then thread the Amplified Heat anchor, go back on belay, and lower (or rap). Tree route can be used too, but this way can be harder to clean and follow.
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