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Routes in Trad Wall

Beginner's Slab T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Creepy Caterpillar S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dirt Crack T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Donkey, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Fluffiest Bunny T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fluffy Bunny T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Minor Traverse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pretty Pony T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Roofy Business T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: Matt Conroy & Davis Bartlett 10/12
Page Views: 475 total, 8/month
Shared By: Matt Conroy on Oct 19, 2012
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

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Description

Start 15’ to the right of Dirt Crack at the twin overlapping flakes that look vaguely like the State of Vermont. Climb up and a bit left to attain the MT ledge (limited pro). Follow the MT Ledge left until it is possible to move upward past an orange patch of rock and some loose blocks to an in cut ledge beneath a small roof above which runs an uneven vertical crack. Work your way up the crack and nearby arête to the ledge above (crux). Continue strait up to the top and belay from one of the nearby trees or traverse 10’ left to the anchors for Dirt Crack.

Protection

Stoppers, Tri Cams and small Cams. The pro is there but finicky, not a lead for the inexperienced.

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