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Routes in Trad Wall

Beginner's Slab T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Creepy Caterpillar S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dirt Crack T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Donkey, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Fluffiest Bunny T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fluffy Bunny T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Minor Traverse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pretty Pony T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Roofy Business T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 529 total, 8/month
Shared By: Matt Wilson on Jun 14, 2012 with updates
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

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Description

Mixed climb.

Protection:
1 bolt, small rack. Pin that used to be between bolt and crack is gone.

Description: Modified from the CRAG-VT guide: Begin on right facing vertical features to right of Roofy Business
and beneath vertical crack 20+ feet up. V0 boulder problem leads to one bolt
~8 feet off deck below vertical crack. Move up to the vertical crack, climbing past the old location of a piton. Protect crack and
climb to 2-bolt anchors. R protection now that piton is gone.

Location

To the right of Roofy Business. Look for the line with a lone bolt at the bottom.

Protection

1 bolt, 1 pin, small rack (I am guessing based on the climb to the left, as I have only toproped this)

Photos

Wright Frost
Central Vermont
Wright Frost   Central Vermont
Led this yesterday. The piton was gone so I had to run out to the crack, and I was probably more than 20 feet above the bolt before I could place gear. I was definitely looking at a ground fall if I had slipped off. It was easy climbing, so I wasn't worried about falling, but I'd still recommend not leading this route until somebody puts a piton back in. Oct 4, 2017
Alan Emery
Lebanon, NH
 
Alan Emery   Lebanon, NH
 
While cleaning the route, there was no pin,so don't plan on one being there. Jul 9, 2017