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Routes in Trad Wall

Beginner's Slab T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Creepy Caterpillar S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dirt Crack T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Donkey, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Fluffiest Bunny T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fluffy Bunny T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Minor Traverse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pretty Pony T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Roofy Business T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 577 total, 9/month
Shared By: Matt Wilson on Jun 14, 2012
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

You & This Route


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Description

From the CRAG-VT guide: Begin at right-facing blocky jugs directly below diagonal
crack ~ 15’ off the deck. To right of Beginner’s Slab. Climb jugs to diagonal crack
leading to roof. Make awkward mantle under roof, being careful to protect the roof
moves via mini dihedral crack off left-facing corner of roof. Pull cool moves through roof
and follow diagonal incipient crack left, then face moves and horizontal cracks to twobolt
anchors. PG 13 protection: standard rack with small pieces.

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The crux will be a grade higher for the shorter climbers (5'5" and shorter), I think, as they will need to be a bit dynamic to reach the jugs to pull the roof.

Location

Center of the wall. See the 8 foot high, 20 foot long hole in the middle of the cliff face? Climb a fairly straight line up through the middle of that.

Protection

Standard rack with small pieces.

Photos

Nick H.
 
Nick H.  
 
As a shorter climber, I had a hard time reaching the jug to get over the roof, so I moved over and climbed up the right side instead. Jun 14, 2012