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Routes in Right Wing

A Walk on the White Side T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chinos Brigade T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Heart Attack Man T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
White Boys T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
White Wonder T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 260 ft, 3 pitches
FA: FRA: Jonathan Garlough & Lincoln Tetherly
Page Views: 334 total · 5/month
Shared By: chinos on Oct 1, 2012
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

This is a full length climb up the right side of the cliff. From the Main Wall at the base of the cliff walk right and uphill to a small alcove with stacked blocks.

P1: Climb the right facing corner on the left side of the alcove to a small roof with a crack. Pull the roof crack and follow the flakes to a final slab with a bolt. Move up to a tree anchor on the halfway tree ledge. 5.9 95’

P2: From the halfway tree ledge climb up a white streak in the slab above the P1 anchor to a bolt at 20’. Move up to a bushy ledge with gear under the overlap. Climb straight up to a crack and follow the flakes on the left to a small ledge with gear in a horizontal. Step right and pull a steep slab to the large flake system on the right. Follow the flake into the corner system at the headwall and finish at a tree anchor. 5.7 100’

P3: Step right to a large ledge. Climb straight up the broken slab with a few gear options to a large pine tree anchor on top. 5.5 60’

Location

Walk right from the base of the Main Wall to a small alcove with stacked blocks. The climb starts in the corner on the left side of the alcove.

Protection

Standard Rack, 1 bolt

Photos

chinos
 
chinos  
 
Thanks for the info on the rap. Most of the info is from memory Mar 8, 2016
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
 
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
 
MeThinks P2 a bit longer than 100ft...we rapped it with a single 70m (1/2 = 114-115ft) and didn't have a lot (2-3 ft) left at the "Half Way Tree Ledge". The point is: Not sure a single 60m would have made it. Aug 16, 2015
chinos
 
chinos  
 
pitches 2 and 3 can be linked together Nov 5, 2012