Type: Trad, 260 ft (79 m), 3 pitches
FA: FRA: Jonathan Garlough & Lincoln Tetherly
Page Views: 804 total · 7/month
Shared By: chinos on Oct 1, 2012
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

This is a full length climb up the right side of the cliff. From the Main Wall at the base of the cliff walk right and uphill to a small alcove with stacked blocks.

P1: Climb the right facing corner on the left side of the alcove to a small roof with a crack. Pull the roof crack and follow the flakes to a final slab with a bolt. Move up to a tree anchor on the halfway tree ledge. 5.9 95’

P2: From the halfway tree ledge climb up a white streak in the slab above the P1 anchor to a bolt at 20’ ft.  Move up to a bushy ledge with gear under the overlap. Climb straight up to a crack and follow the flakes on the left to a small ledge with gear in a horizontal. Step right and pull a steep slab to the large flake system on the right. Follow the flake into the corner system at the headwall and finish at a dbl bolt anchor* 5.7 115-120 ft  [ changed from 100ft; see below and comment of 9/11/21 ] 

[ * replaced the original very mossy, ugly looking tree anchor 9/11/21, see photo. Also, we rapped down this pitch with a single “70m” measured at 72 meters and had only about a meter on each end left at the mid-tree ledge. So a single 60m won’t make it, although you could probably swing left to the maple tree on White Boys and do a short rap from that. RHall NH Admin. ] 

P3: Step up right to a large ledge. Climb straight up the broken slab with a few gear options to a large pine tree anchor on top. 5.5 60’. [ The cut/eaten anchor was replaced 9/11/21 ….I think it’s a lot more than 60 ft from the big pine down to the P2 anchor. ] 

Location

Walk right from the base of the Main Wall to a small alcove with stacked blocks. The climb starts in the corner on the left side of the alcove.

Protection

Standard Rack, 1 bolt

Photos