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White Wonder

5.9, Trad, 260 ft (79 m), 3 pitches,  Avg: 2.7 from 3 votes
FA: FRA: Jonathan Garlough & Lincoln Tetherly
New Hampshire > WM: Albany Area > White Ledge > 4. Right Wing

Description

This is a full length climb up the right side of the cliff. From the Main Wall at the base of the cliff walk right and uphill to a small alcove with stacked blocks.

P1: Climb the right facing corner on the left side of the alcove to a small roof with a crack. Pull the roof crack and follow the flakes to a final slab with a bolt. Move up to a tree anchor on the halfway tree ledge. 5.9 95’

P2: From the halfway tree ledge climb up a white streak in the slab above the P1 anchor to a bolt at 20’ ft.  Move up to a bushy ledge with gear under the overlap. Climb straight up to a crack and follow the flakes on the left to a small ledge with gear in a horizontal. Step right and pull a steep slab to the large flake system on the right. Follow the flake into the corner system at the headwall and finish at a dbl bolt anchor* 5.7 115-120 ft  [ changed from 100ft; see below and comment of 9/11/21 ] 

[ * replaced the original very mossy, ugly looking tree anchor 9/11/21, see photo. Also, we rapped down this pitch with a single “70m” measured at 72 meters and had only about a meter on each end left at the mid-tree ledge. So a single 60m won’t make it, although you could probably swing left to the maple tree on White Boys and do a short rap from that. RHall NH Admin. ] 

P3: Step up right to a large ledge. Climb straight up the broken slab with a few gear options to a large pine tree anchor on top. 5.5 60’. [ The cut/eaten anchor was replaced 9/11/21 ….I think it’s a lot more than 60 ft from the big pine down to the P2 anchor. ] 

Location

Walk right from the base of the Main Wall to a small alcove with stacked blocks. The climb starts in the corner on the left side of the alcove.

Protection

Standard Rack, 1 bolt

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Start of P2 of White Wonder ( & Heart Attack Man, which then moves right to the left-arching crack.)
[Hide Photo] Start of P2 of White Wonder ( & Heart Attack Man, which then moves right to the left-arching crack.)
Belaying off the BIG Pine at the top
[Hide Photo] Belaying off the BIG Pine at the top

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

chinos
  5.9
[Hide Comment] pitches 2 and 3 can be linked together Nov 5, 2012
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
 
[Hide Comment] MeThinks P2 a bit longer than 100ft...we rapped it with a single 70m (1/2 = 114-115ft) and didn't have a lot (2-3 ft) left at the "Half Way Tree Ledge". The point is: Not sure a single 60m would have made it. Aug 16, 2015
chinos
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Thanks for the info on the rap. Most of the info is from memory Mar 8, 2016
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
 
[Hide Comment] I changed P2 pitch length to 115 ft and added the info to the main body of the text. Sep 11, 2021