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White Wonder

5.9, Trad, 260 ft (79 m), 3 pitches,  Avg: 2.7 from 3 votes
FA: FRA: Jonathan Garlough & Lincoln Tetherly
New Hampshire > WM: Albany Area > White Ledge > Right Wing

Description

This is a full length climb up the right side of the cliff. From the Main Wall at the base of the cliff walk right and uphill to a small alcove with stacked blocks.

P1: Climb the right facing corner on the left side of the alcove to a small roof with a crack. Pull the roof crack and follow the flakes to a final slab with a bolt. Move up to a tree anchor on the halfway tree ledge. 5.9 95’

P2: From the halfway tree ledge climb up a white streak in the slab above the P1 anchor to a bolt at 20’. Move up to a bushy ledge with gear under the overlap. Climb straight up to a crack and follow the flakes on the left to a small ledge with gear in a horizontal. Step right and pull a steep slab to the large flake system on the right. Follow the flake into the corner system at the headwall and finish at a tree anchor. 5.7 100’

P3: Step right to a large ledge. Climb straight up the broken slab with a few gear options to a large pine tree anchor on top. 5.5 60’

Location

Walk right from the base of the Main Wall to a small alcove with stacked blocks. The climb starts in the corner on the left side of the alcove.

Protection

Standard Rack, 1 bolt

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Belaying off the BIG Pine at the top
[Hide Photo] Belaying off the BIG Pine at the top

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

chinos
  5.9
[Hide Comment] pitches 2 and 3 can be linked together Nov 5, 2012
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
 
[Hide Comment] MeThinks P2 a bit longer than 100ft...we rapped it with a single 70m (1/2 = 114-115ft) and didn't have a lot (2-3 ft) left at the "Half Way Tree Ledge". The point is: Not sure a single 60m would have made it. Aug 16, 2015
chinos
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Thanks for the info on the rap. Most of the info is from memory Mar 8, 2016