All Locations > W Virginia > New River Gorge… > New River Gorge… > Beauty Mountain > 4) Cave

4) Cave | 8354

Name: 4) Cave | 8354
Rating: 4.0

5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British PG13

Routes in 4) Cave

L › R R › L A › Z

	4) Cave \| 8354 T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
	Disturbance S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Extra Chromosome S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Green Envy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Hot Bip S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	McCrayfish and Chips S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a

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Type:	Trad, 90 ft (27 m)
GPS:	38.05372, -81.03333
FA:	Phil Wilt, Mike Artz 1983. Entire line: Chick Holtcamp 1987
Page Views:	3,217 total · 19/month
Shared By:	Joseph DeGaetano on Aug 27, 2012
Admins:	Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS. Details

All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.

Description

At the far left end of the "Genocide Cave" is its namesake route, Genocide. A somewhat scruffy, poweful overhanging face leads to a stance in an alcove. Clip the only bolt on the route at about 30 feet, breathe a sigh of relief, and ready yourself for the cruxy exit to establish a stance at the base of the beautiful finger/thin hands crack. This is what you live for, or hopefully so. A 10 foot section of thin finger locks gains you easier crack climbing. Gain your composure through this section as you ready yourself for one last thinker move.

Location

Left end of the Genocide cave,just left of McCray Fish and Chips.

Protection

An onsight would be proud and very bold. With that said, climb smart. The top protects fine, the bottom is the issue. You can protect the bottom adequately but should you not get the crucial piece or botch the clip and fall, you are looking at groundfall potential. Make sure your belayer is attentive and knows the deal. 1 bolt. Bolted anchor.