5. Drugs and Sex | 5065
5.12d YDS 7c French 28 Ewbanks IX UIAA 28 ZA E6 6b British
| Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
| GPS: | 44.13662, -107.25768 |
| FA: | Matt Wendling 2000 |
| Page Views: | 1,956 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Mike Snyder on Aug 18, 2012 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
No new route development is allowed until further notice. On July 19, 2019, the US Forest Service issued a notice that it would no longer allow the installation of new bolts or the creation of new climbing routes after manufactured routes were established, then subsequently removed/altered by climbers. In addition, the bolts/fixed anchors on an estimated 50 climbs at Ten Sleep have been affected in some manner that may or may not make them unsafe to climb. The list of altered routes can be found in a drop down on the main, "Ten Sleep Canyon" homepage. The US Forest Service, Powder River Ranger District, is actively working with the local LCO, the Bighorn Climbers' Coalition and Access Fund to develop a sustainable framework for route standards and a Climbing Management Plan for the canyon's future.
Description
Technical slab climbing will keep you on your toes (literally) for the first four clips. The route kicks back and requires a dyno or lunge move on steeper rock to a good pocket. The crux is the rightward sequence that follows on nasty crimps and several more tough reaches. From the jugs it steepens more but is cruiser to the top. It should be noted that this route has no 'drilled' anything as someone alluded to in the Dickins Cider Description. This route has fantastic movement, it is quite clean and very solid for the grade.



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