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Routes in Drugs and Sex

Acid Mother Temple S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Adrenochrome Trundle S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cocaine Rodeo S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dickin's Cider S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Drug of Choice S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Face Melter Roof S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Heroin Hoedown S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Kama Sutra S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mater Hater S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Prison Sex S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Reverse Cowgirl S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Vitamin I S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Vitamin K S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
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Description

In the Valhalla area, and just to the right of the Oblivion routes, is a more newly developed section with some excellent long routes. Those routes on the right tend to be sustained pockets and crimps through a slight overhang on compact rock, while those on the left go through a roof. Several have intermediate anchors, allowing a warmup or an easier route for beginners.

The route order for this section, from left to right, is as follows:
Adrenochrome Trundle 5.12a
Vitamin K 5.12b
Vitamin I 5.11c/d
Acid Mother 5.10a or 5.11c
Cocaine Rodeo 5.12a
Mater Hater 5.12b
Prison Sex 5.12d
Dickins Cider 5.12c

Getting There

To get to this area, park at the Mondo Beyondo lot, and then take the trail starting at the right end of the pullout. Once at the cliff face, turn right and walk 50 yards.

13 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Drugs and Sex

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 94
Acid Mother Temple
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 13
Heroin Hoedown
Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 15
Vitamin I
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 89
Face Melter Roof
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 191
Cocaine Rodeo
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 4
Reverse Cowgirl
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 53
Vitamin K
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 19
Mater Hater
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 12
Dickin's Cider
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Acid Mother Temple
 94
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Heroin Hoedown
 13
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Vitamin I
 15
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Face Melter Roof
 89
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Cocaine Rodeo
 191
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Reverse Cowgirl
 4
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Vitamin K
 53
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
Mater Hater
 19
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
Dickin's Cider
 12
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
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Photos

Julius Grisette
Carbondale
Julius Grisette   Carbondale
What's the deal with all the moderates to lookers left of this panel? Jun 6, 2018

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