GPS: 44.137, -107.258 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 38,798 total · 283/month
Shared By: GabeO on Jul 7, 2010
Admins: Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson
Access Issue: RAPTOR CLOSURES: MOBY DICK AREA & NO NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT Details

Description

In the Valhalla area, and just to the right of the Oblivion routes, is a more newly developed section with some excellent long routes. Those routes on the right tend to be sustained pockets and crimps through a slight overhang on compact rock, while those on the left go through a roof. Several have intermediate anchors, allowing a warmup or an easier route for beginners.

The route order for this section, from left to right, is as follows:
Adrenochrome Trundle 5.12a
Vitamin K 5.12b
Vitamin I 5.11c/d
Acid Mother 5.10a or 5.11c
Cocaine Rodeo 5.12a
Mater Hater 5.12b
Prison Sex 5.12d
Dickins Cider 5.12c

Getting There

To get to this area, park at the Mondo Beyondo lot, and then take the trail starting at the right end of the pullout. Once at the cliff face, turn right and walk 50 yards.

18 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Drugs and Sex

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 164
Acid Mother Temple
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 53
Ecstasy
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 51
Heroin Hoedown
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 30
Trippin' Balls
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 26
Vitamin I
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 139
Face Melter Roof
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 16
Last Dance With Mary Jane
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 356
Cocaine Rodeo
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 28
Adrenochrome Trundle
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 54
Kama Sutra
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 78
Reverse Cowgirl
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 127
Vitamin K
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 56
Drug of Choice
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 34
Mater Hater
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 37
Dickin's Cider
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Acid Mother Temple
 164
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Ecstasy
 53
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Heroin Hoedown
 51
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Trippin' Balls
 30
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Vitamin I
 26
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
Face Melter Roof
 139
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Last Dance With Mary Jane
 16
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Cocaine Rodeo
 356
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Adrenochrome Trundle
 28
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Kama Sutra
 54
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Reverse Cowgirl
 78
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Vitamin K
 127
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
Drug of Choice
 56
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
Mater Hater
 34
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Dickin's Cider
 37
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
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