GPS: 44.137, -107.258 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 30,367 total · 242/month
Shared By: GabeO on Jul 7, 2010
Admins: Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson
Access Issue: No New Route Development & Existing Route Impacts. Details

Description

In the Valhalla area, and just to the right of the Oblivion routes, is a more newly developed section with some excellent long routes. Those routes on the right tend to be sustained pockets and crimps through a slight overhang on compact rock, while those on the left go through a roof. Several have intermediate anchors, allowing a warmup or an easier route for beginners.

The route order for this section, from left to right, is as follows:
Adrenochrome Trundle 5.12a
Vitamin K 5.12b
Vitamin I 5.11c/d
Acid Mother 5.10a or 5.11c
Cocaine Rodeo 5.12a
Mater Hater 5.12b
Prison Sex 5.12d
Dickins Cider 5.12c

Getting There

To get to this area, park at the Mondo Beyondo lot, and then take the trail starting at the right end of the pullout. Once at the cliff face, turn right and walk 50 yards.

18 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Drugs and Sex

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 139
Acid Mother Temple
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 33
Ecstasy
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 19
Heroin Hoedown
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 17
Trippin' Balls
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 23
Vitamin I
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 121
Face Melter Roof
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 13
Last Dance With Mary Jane
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 291
Cocaine Rodeo
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 29
Kama Sutra
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 44
Reverse Cowgirl
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 92
Vitamin K
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 28
Mater Hater
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 30
Drug of Choice
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 25
Dickin's Cider
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 5
Prison Sex
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Acid Mother Temple
 139
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Ecstasy
 33
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Heroin Hoedown
 19
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Trippin' Balls
 17
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Vitamin I
 23
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
Face Melter Roof
 121
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Last Dance With Mary Jane
 13
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Cocaine Rodeo
 291
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Kama Sutra
 29
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Reverse Cowgirl
 44
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Vitamin K
 92
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
Mater Hater
 28
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
Drug of Choice
 30
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
Dickin's Cider
 25
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Prison Sex
 5
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
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