Type: Sport, 105 ft
FA: Aaron Huey
Page Views: 11,328 total · 110/month
Shared By: GabeO on Jul 7, 2010
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

You & This Route


204 Opinions

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Description

This superb route has several distinct cruxes, with good rests in between. The rock is super-compact throughout, with pinches, pockets, and crimps galore. For the most part, it gently overhangs, though there is also a small bulge, and some slabby sections.

Location

The first route to the right of the roof. Start directly in front of the tree on a super-clean face.

Protection

15 bolts

Anchors replaced with ASCA 1/2" SS Powerbolts and Climbtech Hooks by the Bighorn Anchor Initiative (BAI)

Photos

HoseBeats
  5.12a
HoseBeats  
  5.12a
This route is as good as 12a gets. Jul 7, 2010
Nick Stayner
Wymont Kingdom
 
Nick Stayner   Wymont Kingdom
 
Totally fantastic. You pull a tough move or two, get a rest, then glance up and see there's still a TON to go! Mega. Might want to watch it if lowering with a 60m. Jun 26, 2012
John W
Estes Park
  5.12a
John W   Estes Park
  5.12a
Wow what a great climb! There's really not a shut-down move on the climb so the crux seems to be keeping the pump at bay. Seems evident that this route gets some traffic by the polished black foot holds covered in rubber...adds a little difficulty to the crux moves. Aug 18, 2012
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
 
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
 
May be the best 12a I have done. Absolutely amazing climb! Jun 20, 2013
Jean Spencer
Squamish, CA
 
Jean Spencer   Squamish, CA
 
Now that was fun! Especially liked the you're-not-done-yet crux at the top. Sep 2, 2013
canyonclimber
Casper WY
canyonclimber   Casper WY
Wohoo, my first 12a lead at 43 years of age! Jan 12, 2014
Aaron Furman
Eldorado Springs, CO
 
Aaron Furman   Eldorado Springs, CO
 
AMAZING!!!!

Crux is the opening sequence and then just above the bulge, be confident and mono hard to the mega holds just out of reach. Jul 27, 2015
Chris Winter
Portland, OR
  5.12a
Chris Winter   Portland, OR
  5.12a
Beautiful route! This route could use a modern sport anchor. The cold shut is worn at least half way through. Aug 17, 2015
Top Rope Hero
Was Estes Park, now homeless
  5.12a
Top Rope Hero   Was Estes Park, now homeless
  5.12a
"There's really not a shut-down move on the climb..."

Wwwwwwwhhhhhaaaaaa?!?! Are you high? First, there's that must-do, left-hand mono at the very beginning of the first bulge...then before the finishing moves you have to reach up and high step INTO an overhead gaston.

PLUS...if'n you didn't know to go beta right at the very beginning instead of trying that thin, desperate, 5.27d left sequence (SPOILER ALERT), then you'd likely get shut down THERE pretty hard.

I'd certainly call all THOSE stopper moves...not that they did... Sep 8, 2015
Spencer Scott
Kansas City, MO
 
Spencer Scott   Kansas City, MO
 
Move after move after move after move. 3 independent cruxs. This route will straight up blow your mind. Aug 29, 2016
Franck Vee
  5.12a
Franck Vee  
  5.12a
@ Toprope: at least in my understanding of a "stopper move", it is a move that is much harder than the rest of the route and could possibly just not be passable by someone redpointing that grade. You're more likely to find that in a one-move wonder (where the grade is made mostly by a single, well-defined crux that is definitely solid at the grade).

Cocaine has indeed no such move - I think anyone who "can climb" (redpoint or handdog) 12a can make it to the top of Cocaine. Aug 8, 2017
Michael Schmenk
Sandy, UT
 
Michael Schmenk   Sandy, UT
 
The anchors on this route look super sketch currently. It's open fish hook style anchors, that are very worn, with chains hanging off them. The chains hanging off the hooks almost came off while I was cleaning the route so beware. Aug 28, 2017
Steve Lineberry
Charlotte, NC
  5.12a
Steve Lineberry   Charlotte, NC  
  5.12a
If you don't care about blowing your onsight, here's a route preview video: youtu.be/71zXsBY3n2c Jul 3, 2018
Taylor Spiegelberg
Lander & Sheridan, WY
Taylor Spiegelberg   Lander & Sheridan, WY  
Anchors replaced with ASCA 1/2" SS Powerbolts and Climbtech Hooks by the Bighorn Anchor Initiative (BAI) Aug 31, 2018