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Routes in Drugs and Sex

Acid Mother Temple S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Adrenochrome Trundle S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cocaine Rodeo S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dickin's Cider S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Face Melter Roof S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Heroin Hoedown S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mater Hater S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Prison Sex S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Vitamin I S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Vitamin K S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Matt Wendling
Page Views: 979 total, 13/month
Shared By: WAGbag on Jul 15, 2011
Admins: Mike Snyder

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Description

Rugged thin start gives way to a rest before the crux starts. The sequence is a little deceptive through here so good luck on the onsight. This is typical Ten Sleep thin pocket pulling and technical feet. After this find your marginal rests and you make your way through 5.11 climbing to the top where you'll encounter one last set of steeper pumpy moves. Fantastic route!

Location

This is past Darth Vader, second climb on the right side of the alcove. The first one is Prison Sex. One of the older guides mistakenly notes Dickins Cider as the Prison Sex line.

Protection

11 ish bolts

Photos

7th bolt is loose as of August 25th, 2017. Pretty easy climbing at that point, so don't blow it and you'll be fine. Good route besides that. Brutal to onsight due to crux sequence. Aug 26, 2017
Petsfed
Laramie, WY
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
I think this is pretty tame, compared to some of the names out there. And anyway, Ten Sleep has never been much for taking itself too seriously. Apr 14, 2013